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I just wanted to codify that last response since the thread has been "moved".

It's easy when you know how.. but never been done before...

I AM producing a video that shows 4 cuts, made from the bucket truck, ranging from approx 18" up to 25" in diameter, and 12'6" long in 2:16. This video will appear as an unedited piece, showing 4 cuts made in the same time as Stig's one cut, and includes repositioning the bucket 3 times with...

How so? It's a straight uncut, unedited video Are you calling me a liar?

It's a fact not fiction... Stig's cut is about 2:20 on his tree if you add 5 seconds to the 2:15 because he doesn't show the start of the cut. My tree left the stump in close 1:30 or 1:31. Both trees about the same size. so that's my 91 seconds to Stig's 140 seconds. That's not even close...

You'll just have to trust me... my tree left the stump in 90 seconds from the time the saw hit the wood. using a stock saw 461 stihl and chain.. Stig isn't even close..

Thanks for the contribution.

massive trees are a game changer. up to 4 or 5 feet there just isn't enough force to push the but back off the stump assuming a reasonable hinge. I don't really know where the cut off is because I don't handle anything bigger, and even the 4 foot plus are more of an exception these days...

OK. thanks for clarifying Carry on Just one more question do you use or recommend that 2"minimum guideline for falling your suburban trees? That was something I heard regularly in training for many years. Never heard the why of it though. I think that guideline has changed here in the states.

It's not that hard to understand. The hinge has to connect the falling trunk to the stump. ANy weakness in those connecting fibers is going to reduce the effectiveness of the hinge. So any imperfection such as a knot or decay or squirrelly fibers is going to make a difference. If the grain is...

As just one example, any time you have twisted grain stump shot can cause the hinge to thin out on one side and get fatter on the other. In this Norway maple there appears to be no more than 1" of stump shot and quite a bit of hinge loss from the twisted grain in the wood.

Is it that hard to understand that one of the main differences between arborists and loggers is the number of falling cuts that are made in a day? I can prune trees or rig trees from the bucket truck all day long and only make one or two falling cuts over the course of that day. Does it matter...

I would love it if someone could explain in detail the physics and forces involved, and how they make stump shot safer per your above statement. When you say safer, do you mean safer to the faller or to property? I can assure you that with a nice fat hinge and a high pull line on a machine, that...

Please tell us more about the variable back cut height that was intrinsic to the discussion and application to each tree I'm very curious what exactly did they say what are the variables and what were the recommendations?

Good to know. Tell us more. And then wondering why the height on the above pics would not get passed. Are they saying level is no god?

Those back cuts were set at the specific heights for a reason. There is a problem with one size fits all solutions. I believe I was the first one on this forum to point out that stump shot ( at least 2" of stump shot) is not needed in most suburban falling scenarios. Anytime you put that back...

The first concern about bar pinch is not much of an issue.. Maybe on a big hollow tree, but otherwise no. In the second part I think you are asking why use the intentionally high bottom cut on the face per the plate cut? Lots of reasons.. we've debated it here in much detail.

These hinges had some holding ability. Rips had near zero: