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I've idly looked in the grease hole on my bars that have them, and didn't see grease, but I wasn't looking that closely either. Wasn't sure how noticeable it would be.

That's what I always heard. Do or don't, but be consistent. So Oregons come pregreased? Or perhaps as a general statement, if they come with a grease hole, one should assume they've been greased? Is there a way to tell?

I don't grease them. Stihl doesn't even have a hole. I think Oregon provides one.

I'd write directly to Tsumura. Those are supposed to be pro quality bars, but you aren't getting anywhere near pro performance. Hell, even I'd blow a tip out in a year or two. They should at least know about it, instead of rolling along assuming everything's cool.

I wonder what it would take to be a field tester for Tsumura? Might be worth writing to complain, and offer your services testing out a redesign. Score some free bars, and make things a little better. "Tsumura, Now with the redesigned StigTip® Holds up to the toughest environments!"

I'd like to get something nice for my little saws. My big stuff's all Stihl, so I run Stihl bars. They're hard to beat imo. My little saws use WoodlandPro. Hard to get excited about them, but better than stock, and a bit cheaper. I'll be interested in hearing your professional opinion stig.

What I've heard around is if you grease. you have to keep doing it. Greasing once is worse than not greasing at all. I've also heard it's optional, and I opt not to do it. Bar oil should be sufficient.

Might be worth picking one up for testing purposes, and then you'll know. Better to try it out while you don't *need* it, than go off internet opinions, and find they don't really work for you. I have the luxury of being able to have a saw down for awhile, or lose a bit of money on a purchase. I...

Well, I guess my argument is an out of balance saw(speaking more of nose heaviness here) feels heavier, and is harder to maneuver than a heavier saw with better balance. Maybe it's my technique, but I feel like I'm fighting a nose heavy saw. The two solutions in my case are go with a lightweight...

My previous "big saw" was a MS362 with a 25" ES bar. Made it very nose heavy, and made it feel heavier than the raw numbers indicated. My 661 with the same bar is much nicer to heft. IMO, balance is better than lower weight.

ES are solid, and E are laminated. ES Light are solid with pockets milled out and filled.