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I had a Snelling 2252. I felt like my stock Stihl 261 had as much or more grunt, maybe not as much zip. I’m a grunt guy.

I’ve been cutting my cookies with the logs vertical lately, somewhat simulating felling situations. Testing dog-in grunt, boring, chip clearing, bar pinch to some extent. This thing is an animal. This seems to be working for chip clearance:

I’m pretty sure mastermind or @huskihl could get some more horsetorques out of a 550…

@Nutball quite the torture test. I’m duly impressed. 24”? What chain?

My job is loud, my truck is loud, my hobbies are loud. There are earplugs on my person at all times…listening for a tree cracking a little with a stock saw for someone who doesn’t do it all the time isn’t going to make me deaf. I’m in my early forties and I still hear stuff others don’t. Just...

Why do people have to be insulting?

Let’s try again. “At the end to listen for cracking”. I should add, one ear plug that is towards the tree and away from the saw only partially out. I’ve see plenty of fallers do it, it’s actually where I got the idea. The saw is not running all out, just nibbling. My grandfather was mostly...

You gotta YouTube?

I have been practicing/learning to swing leaners lately. I find I prefer a light, torquey off the line, responsive saw. And not too loud so I can skip ear protection at the end and listen for cracking. Once on the ground and bucking, a ripper is fun.

Squish is usually around .020” for most all saws.

I should add that I’m a Gearhead and run a machine and welding shop…so I could port…but I think it is wiser and more effective/efficient to pay @huskihl for his experience and have him do it.

So I dunno if squish can be cut on a 2511, I’ve not been in one. @huskihl would know. Just general info for everyone… “Ported” is a very broad term. Porter’s skills and results vary as much as tree guys. Simply making the ports larger and hacking out the muffler usually won’t add a whole lot...