Search results for query: *

JetSteps are ambidextrous. I mostly use a right foot ascender, as it's the newer Petzl, but occasionally switch it up (and feel clumsy). Chest harnesses are personal preference. I don't care for them. My homemade floater is on a long bungee "Daisy chain" the goes over my shoulder to the back...

Yes. If the HH and HH2 are at different heights, I can slack one climbing system or the other for some lateral movement. No need to tie into the dead tops, which angle heavily, as needed, in the same direction as my angling suspension ropes. Alternately, is be climbing on the madrones 100%...

HH/HH2 will slide up and down a taut rope on an angle, as it doesn't bend the rope. I did this once a long time ago to top a dead tree. From yesterday, I have some dead madrone tops, upper 2/3-3/4 dead (40-50' tops), out on bid, where there are taller doug-fir trees on one side, and a ground...

Depends on what you're climbing on, and how you're climbing. Agreed, it shouldn't saw back and forth. 200' of arbor Plex is a lot of stretch, sit-standing, and slacking and tensioning. I think climber weight is another factor. I normally never use one. Keeping pitch off your rope while...

Tube cambium savers are cheap and easy to install when setting your re-direct/ Primary Suspension Point PSP.

Lower stretch ropes 'saw' less. Smooth climbing, like a good rope walker setup helps.

Looks good, and could be simpler. One large ring girth-hitched to the long side (standing end) and thread the short side through. Dyneema melts relatively easily. An accidental running of a rigging rope over that could be trouble.

Too many people work with bad ground crews. Contract climbers seem to have this sometimes, possibly commonly. I don’t feel concerned about base-ties. Just giving options.

@DMc Dave do you only work with Silvia? Base-ties can be compromised by a log hitting the trunk, mid tree or base. Don't drop logs on your rope.

This was set from the ground, for demo purposes. I have a long-tailed running Bowline, which, with a good amount of slack, I was able to "Western roll" up the trunk, then cinch up high, counter-pressuring the rb tail and the climbing side of the rope.

This is for keeping the down-strand away from the cutting area. This is my second bridge ring, which was pulled down from my HH carabiner's bridge ring. You see the taut down-strand on the left, and slack standing end, below the HH, which is out of frame, above.

A pole hook with a 'lifter-tip' https://www.treestuff.com/phoenix-aluminum-pole-saw-head/ Would push that base-tie right up the trunk. Macswan wrote an Article on TB about simple base-ties. Graham Mcmahon had a similar style, on video somewhere. Lowerable, no hardware.

Cory, if there is a twig or branch somewhat off the ground, use it as a rope holder. On my sites, a short loader is often tucked off to the side, and homeowners always have said to use it. A loader, hand truck, arbor trolley, etc, are all talk enough to stand on. I'm going to clip my...

Cory, have your base-tie at 10'. No worries. Use a long tail to pull it down when done.

Cough HH, right out of the package, cough

I had my HH2 for a while before hooking it on a line. My HH is so good, why change? Nothing to hit you in the teeth. That HH is so simple and effective. Don't overlook it for all that complication, imo.

Just get a HH2!

Cory, welcome into the light.😉

Wouldn't want to put in a don't- rappel -offa -your - rope - n- die knot. Way too much work, like it's too much work in tree work.

A very good idea. I used mine the other day for a speed line anchor. It is also useful as a climber tensioned/ released speed line connection up top. Couple ropes and a handful of speed line/ Double-whip tackle slings, and a solo climber can accomplish a lot.