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I have run Oregon, Stihl, and Archer 1/4 chains on that Echo sprocket, but compatibility on bar sprockets is different. Running a modified Stihl bar with Stihl chain will work, and I think Archer's version of the chain works on the Stihl bar too, and doesn't have the safety bumpers making it...

Echo has a 1/4" part number for their saw. The Stihl 150t and 151t come with 1/4" stock, and you have to search for 3/8 if they still make it. A556001710 for the 2511t

I think that's right for stock.

The 8t 1/4 sprocket is a bit smaller than the 6t 3/8, so more torque, less speed, but more teeth per inch.

Most of the gains are to be had from a muffler mod, like 20% more power, then another 10-20% from porting, and another 20% with some extreme mods. Ported it will run 1/4 .043 14" no problem, but it is a slow chain. Personally I'd stick with a 12" bar for 3/8 .043, and look to cut 10" max, but it...

Video host sites don't like me. YT kicked me off months ago, I realize now it may have been a mistake by some automated anti spam thing on their end, but too late now and I don't care. Then Vimeo kicked me off with my first video saying I broke their rules, when I had just looked through them...

I think they use the same file. 5/32 or your 4.something mm equivalent.

The stock chain needs the teeth filed with a steep angle (file high, not low in the gullet). Also the kickback reducing bumpers next to the depth gauges tends to make any kind of cutting with the tip (boring or burying in cross cut) extremely slow. It may also be the AV system Echo uses that...

I've only seen the outer layer, thin inner layer, then the back side. Go through the first 2 layers basically. The middle layer is what restricts flow. I was just saying to be careful about punching through the back when breaking through the middle layer.

Yes, use a sharp new bit, that's some tough stuff.

Both layers, just be careful not to go through the 3rd layer.

Flippys do fail. I had one reverse or something, so it lined up such that it was impossible to secure. Other times they lock in place, then just fall out on the way up.

I think it depends on how competent of people you work with, and personal preference. I think I'd find t easier to just fuel it myself in the tree and toss the bottle down than to lower, wait, and raise. I like to keep moving.

I was cutting 4-14" Ash into firewood yesterday, and didn't find it justifiable to cut faster by lugging around 20lbs. The 2511 cut plenty fast at no weight. I might as well just have a chainsaw blade sticking out of my fist.

I had an idea, you know those little bottles of oil to mix 1 gallon of gas? They are small enough it could be handy to climb with a couple to refill the saw with gas and oil from in the tree. I think one of those little bottles could really hold up to 4oz, the 2511t holds 4.7oz of oil, and 6.4oz...

That extra bumper gets in the way of sharpening. I had to use a flat file vertically on the middle bumper to get a round file to fit. The saw Mitch modified for me: <iframe width="704" height="396" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/W2xGVLIgvJM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay...

It's just the extra bumper beside the depth gauge like what stihl 1/4 chain has, and it should help reduce vibration.

I don't FB either, so it kinda blocks my browsing.

Might need to make a new thread for that to get more views. Good deals!

The spark arrester is optional anyway, right? So it shouldn't affect warranty.