Search results for query: *

Nothing like a brand-spanking new file ... One can extend the files’ lifespan considerably however there comes a time of diminishing returns and a new file should be purchased.

... this unit does both left and right cutters and the rakers ... It’s also quite a bit more expensive

... The only difference is that mine is a newer version and is white instead of green ...

I’ve been experimenting a bit and have discovered that a “rough and finish” approach seems to work well ... For my round chain (sqr/rnd) I use a 13/64 roughing file to hog out the gullet and “rough-in” the tooth ... After doing both left and right hand cutters I go back with a “finishing” file...

No .... blow off the entire log where you are going to cut ONLY... I get my logs in 8ft lengths so it takes about .... um 20secs ... ymmv

Dirty logs ... let the rain / snow hit em and then use the leaf blower blast away the debris ... a bore cut then up , down will keep the chain away from the bark and in the clean wood if excessive mud / dirt do not get blown away by the Leaf blower ... (hint : ported leaf blower works best) 8)

Time is $ ... by the time I file a chain by hand or drop stop and swap a new one I could just grab a gtg saw and have a face cord cut up ... This works for me , maybe different for guy deep in forest but idear is same

When the chain begins loosing cutting performance (75-90%) of razor sharp according to Burnham or Stig it behooves you to STOP , drop and swap or grab another saw to continue the job .... If you try and “force” the chain you are stressing the Cutting attachment unnecessarily ... I prefer to have...

Having an extra saw or 3 available, ready to cut with a freshly-sharpened chain, might not be a bad idear either. Trying to cut with a chain that has lost its edge puts a lot of undue pressure on the various components of the chainsaw ... Sometimes ya can cut a few tanks worth or other times...

You can definitely get a very sharp chain hand filing ... but ... if you do not “get the gullet” (as Buckin sez) you’re chain Will NOT cut as quickly ... an illustration ... ... with my grinder I can get it all in one pass ... if you are hand filing you must do another operation ... ie 1)...

That’s fine if you are farting around in the yard. However , If you want to make a good hourly rate doing firewood , 70cc class saws and a kinetic splitter are a must

Grinding can overheat a tooth IF the wrong wheel is used ... The wheel on my unit is the manufactures recommended one ... never had a problem with work hardened teeth/ temper using the logosol grinder ... I cut wood faster with 30% faster saws

The 37* angle will allow the saw to cut faster in softer wood (pine, poplar etc) provided the saw has enough balls to pull it ... The downside is less life (steeper angle) and will dull quicker ... I’ve used it in ash and it’s definitely faster than a 30* stock STIHL chain but doesn’t hold the...

That’s at 37* ... off the roll STIHL RS 3/8 .050 (30*) IF your saw has the stones to pull this more aggressive chain you’ll see quicker cut/cut ... Only downside is that it will dull a fuzz quicker

No it won’t work harden the teeth at all ... The teeth are held securely by a roller that holds it dead-nuts location wise (same spot ,each tooth can’t rock) and it’s a cam grinder which is very precise and can get each tooth and raker to .001 production .... .0002 if you let go around and...

I have a logosol robot grinder and can sharpen 10 teeth / min ... I usually do batches of 5-10 chains at a time as it only does one side at a time ... run your 5-10 chains thru one side only - then loosen head and reconfigure for other side and run the 5-10 chains ... It gets them EXTREMELY...

Same here but I don’t have to send em out 😂 ... Was recently at a Local STIHL dealership shootin the breeze with the owner and he was telling me about a logger from PA who swore no one could touch his hand filed (RS sqr/rnd)round chain - The guy had a test log and the logger proudly cut a few...