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  1. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    I can tell you this.. If those 1/2 ISC compact blocks were available when I first started out, I would own one. It is on my list to purchase. Nice piece of kit.
  2. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    Larger bend radius ..... I have never needed a 3/4 block and I have done some good sized trees. Now If I lived in Humboldt..... Maybe diffy 5/8ths CMIs have always served me well. Ask yourself, would you, will you, or could you comfortably rig something heavier off a tree better than 2000 lbs...
  3. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    Those purple double sheeve pulleys I got from him as well for the z rig kit I put together.
  4. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    I use steel screw lock crabs that are never used for life support, only rigging. Since as we all know, screw locks are frowned upon for life support in tree work. I buy two different brands basically.. I can sometimes get them on Ebay.... And they work just fine. AMP product...
  5. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    To keep the log from rolling down hill once felled. We also had it butt tied when it came time.
  6. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    Now, another little diddy in the kit is the 3/8ths stable braid. Dave Stice (niceguydave) recommended it, I tried it and love my 150 foot Hank. We use it a lot on light stuff. Gloves are a good idea due to it's diameter.http://www.wesspur.com/rope/samson-stable-braid.html
  7. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    Exactly... What Stig is saying... Identify your bottle neck and address it or completely avoid it by common sense.. Here is a better shot of a limb (hard to tell it is over 1000#) with the marl and running bowline. This limb had to be cut in 1/2 for the mini to move. It was lowered with a...
  8. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    Pretty much, there are at least 2 threads in here about it. Did we ever come to a conclusion?? :lol: Sort of like an oil thread, it just keeps running. Basically a marl is like a 1/2 hitch that goes between the tail of the rope and the termination end, both on the piece to be rigged. It is like...
  9. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    Right on both accounts. Keep the weights small at first as well. When your weieghts go up, it will require using marls with the biner or knot. This is just fast for removals. Like Sean pointed out, if you NCR a prune, use a limb you'll be removing. Clipping into a loop runner girth hitched...
  10. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    You really should not ever ignore natural crotch rigging and keeping it simple in the beginning (as pointed to by Sean). You get a good feeling how friction and rope play together. Sometimes it is just faster. Can be a tad rough on the rope species dependant. Here is a vid I posted in the tree...
  11. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    A man can not have enough loop runners.......
  12. CurSedVoyce

    getting started in (light) rigging

    First block I bought was the Stainless Steel 5/8ths CMI. I now have 2. Take a beating.. No worries. Kinda heavy, but if you go big later on, no worries. Now for light rigging I have been using the Pinto Rig on a 3/8ths loopie. It will handle up to 5/8ths rope. Love it. Light and strong. I can...
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