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until you look a little closer... had to clean it up I had a little bypass, like that on the corner of the hinge, throw the fall off by 45º on a similar sized chestnut oak once... that was scary... monster spar landed right between a shed and a big beautiful dogwood.... Got lucky on that one...

Looks like a clean notch right???

another perspective Had to take the right and top out to clear the street and bucket

I would have taken more side weight if it was going to be quick and easy. tree didn't look that big on video , BUT IT WAS! That big lead out the back was actually out of reach from the bucket. Maybe I could have re-positioned and got it down, but I was working on a flat rate, and the guy low...

Only the house... pretty sure there was a small bridge or a fence there too.. wasn't going to hit the house with two lines in it, but we needed to have a good angle for the pull lines, so we pulled the bucket much closer than I would normally like.

Sure.. I've broken a couple pull lines and rolled big ash lead off the roof of a brand new house... That was on a twin lead ash with the bigger heavier lead leaning out towards the street primaries... I was trying to take them both together, but when the street side started to move first, I cut...

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Or wiping out the boom with a direct hit eh? No way to tell from vid or photo, but that tree had a LOT of back and SIDE lean... I pulled the bucket truck that far forward to adjust the angle of the pull line to help fight the side lean. August calls them compensation pulls and I think that's a...

just found the vid and uploaded ion youtube.. pretty funny... 60 seconds.. you can just see for a second the bucket truck used as a ground anchor and the chip truck doing the pulling... <iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/A2eFuIEXtQs" frameborder="0"...

I was doing the job as a sub.... the guy that hired me was running my phone camera... funny.... you could hear him talking to his buddy as I was finishing the back cut, "I don't like this, that's not the way I do tree work, he should take all that wight off the back side first, Real worried tone...

I just got the dyno out on one job recently, primarily to check rigging forces.. I've been meaning to test it for pulling power. Since it has turf tracks it will slip on grass pretty early, guessing somewhere 2500-4000 lbs on grass and probably 5-6000 on blacktop. Won't take much to check for...

I think wedges are extremely important in backing up pull lines on heavy back leaners... I've seen them move a tree when the pull lines were real close to maxed out. I know there are a lot of trees I cut that could be simply wedged over without needing to set a pull line... I just feel more...

That's a good question... more later... I'd be careful with any tree near a valuable obstacle.. that's not the time to learn how to use wedges...

That wasn't directed at you... the 10% is what we're taught as an industry standard... 5-10% isn't much better until you ad this to it Quote Originally Posted by sotc Your 3.5" is the heavy side. I typically know I can safely saw up a tree to the 10% range before much is going to happen...

Men are dying weekly from poor cutting skills... not enough apprenticeships to go around ??

That is a lot more useful info than just 10%... Apparently we have to educate ourselves about such matters to get it right!!!

That's one of the variables then... I;ve pulled trees over with ropes for 30 years. That's a much different game than using wedges.. Which I might have done 20-30 times in my life. Give me a nice fat rope set high in a nasty side leaning silver maple (poor hinging wood) and I'll show you a 6"...

well I never have cut a tree in a typical forest... When I try to BBC them on purpose for video, that first crotch is a hindrance. Much less drama when the tree only splits 5-7' before rolling off to the side

We really need to understand the "why"... WHY is it 10%... once we do then we can adjust that for each scenario. If you just stick to the "rules" without understanding the why then you really are just a "dumb tree cutter". These rules make us dumb.... Maybe 10% is a place to start for...

exactly!!! Let's talk inches not percentage of diameter.. 40" straight tree, 4" hinge is going to be a problem... why fight that much resistance when a 2" hinge will work just fine? !!! You could say a 2" hinge is 5% of the diameter, making it withing the 5-10% range that Willie mentioned, but...