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;) :lol:

Make sure to angle the cut so the "board" tips up at the outer end...you'll get some sag usually, and it's way easier to stand on and more secure in it's pocket if it isn't hanging down away from the tree. Otherwise, you have the idea right. Obviously, the deeper and tighter you can get the...

Girly??? :lol:

If you're just knocking out a one time use board on site in the woods, hereabouts I'd chose a small western hemlock, 6 inch diameter or so. Before felling it slab off four sides of about six feet of the tree from the base up.

Yeah Angus, just as Willie described it. West slope of the Cascade Range, northwestern Oregon. That's taken at fairly low elevation for around here, about 1800 feet. Annual rainfall 80-100 inches. The tree felled is indeed a Western red cedar. The stand there is oldgrowth. Dominated by...

:evil: ;)

Nice, Angus. I'll point out that caulk boots sure would be a blessing when you're dancing on a wet springboard :). Here's a few pics of a made-to-need board, some might remember seeing these pics from a hazard tree removal contract I administered a couple of years ago.

The board is not just a board...the only right way to do it is with vertical grain, tight grain, too. If it's not vert. grain, the board sags badly under the sawyers weight. Here in the PNW, the preferred wood would be Doug fir...golden in strength to weight ratio. I've been haunting barn...