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i have the that book and the way i saw it in my head when i read that part was how u described doing it yourself, just assumed there was a face cut, but i guess not?

so im not very good at climbing on my spurs, I most of the time do this goofy thing where i have my hands on my TIP rope while stepping up and taking in the slack vs normal fliplining up. I need to practice normal flip lining. but for the time being i was wondering if anyone ever uses a foot...

so the laser i have is just a super basic one that tells distance and angles, not a forestry laser, what would be the cheapest tool i could get that i could find the height of the tree with? clinometer? is that what they are called i cant remeber

Yup.

High, with a wide-open bird's mouth face. As soon as your back cut proceeds far enough for the tree to just begin to fall, stop cutting. You want the hinge to hold as long as possible; maybe you'll even get lucky and it won't break loose at all.

so if i want to minimize the distance the tip of the tree hits at, am i better off cutting a high stump or low stump when making the felling cut?

yes its a pine

the limb i was goiong to go and take off is the lowest one u see there. The tree is leaning probably 25-30 degrees away from the house, ill probably just go up taje that one limb that would smack the roof otw down and fall it.

Such fun Man i miss our missing tree men

Good old thread @Wwallace52590 here’s a leaner

If it'd clear the wires and there was room, I'd drop it whole ~45* away from the house, assuming it hinges like the pines we have here.

I think I started one? I know I have some sketches.

Here is a good thread on anchor swinging https://www.masterblasterhome.com/threads/tethered-leaner-improvement.28554/

...pretty reliable redirect cut. A benefit of angling it as such is that now your hinge is angled away from the lean similar to a coos bay cut which *should* reduce tendency to chair. Not likely a barberchair prone tree but it is a lot of lean. Another idea. Just take all the limbs and top...