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My sentiments exactly.

The first time I tried to set my ABR uSAVER from the ground, the pulley hung up in the crotch. I had to set another thrown line to get a rope in the tree to climb up and retrieve it. A simple ring to ring is pretty easy to set from the ground if you can get the TIP isolated. I learned from...

It needs to be unweighted to advance freely without drag so connect the knee ascender to a chest harness or similar and not to the bottom of the bone....unless you're asking how it advances when the rope is being pulled straight down by a foot/knee ascender in which case the answer is it...

A word of warning...in the video he cuts the tails off of the diamond knot after only slightly loading it with pliers. The tails should be left long until the knot has been fully loaded a few times as the the tails will pull in a little. After being well loaded the tails can be cut off short (or...

I've made and used smaller soft shackles and find milking the bury to close them a bit fiddly and not something I really want to do with cold fingers. I also wonder how reliably a worker in a hurry will get it securely closed every time. It sure is pretty.

SAKA

I started with a HH and eventually got a RW out of curiosity. While the RW works well, I never really warmed up to it and always defaulted to the HH. Now I usually go for the BDB first and then the RR. However, I miss a well set up HH enough that I climb on it just for the pleasure...

;) Speaking of head to head, I ran them together DSRT a couple of days ago...

TEASE!!!

Your life is dependent on you doing your part and making sure the device grabs just as with a hitch (which sometimes fail to grab and have to be nudged). The RR has been in use for a few(?) years now and I haven't heard of a spring failure. The spring is under very low stress and very unlikely...

Without the spring the RR will not normally grab the rope on it's own. It will still grab if you bump up the bird (top arm) just like setting a hitch. Once set, you can hang and descend normally. Here's a demonstration by Yoyoman... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Z2IYTDchTM

I got some more climb time on it today and took a couple more photos. The rope pretty well fills up the space between the pulley sheave and the bridge ring and helps to keep it oriented to a position that keeps it hooked on even if it wasn't a tight snap on fit.

LOL...MS Paint. How unimpressive is that? On the ground, getting the pulley on and off to connect/disconnect the HH from the bridge is a pain (to me). In the tree, with the weight of 70'+ of rope hanging below, it gets increasingly difficult to get everything in a position where the biner gate...

I cut mine with a small bump so it "snaps" on. I don't have much time on it yet, but I'm not anticipating any problems with it coming off.

Yes, knee ascender (SAKA) and foot ascender is the only way to go. I have two BDB's (one I made and fine tuned to Yale 11.7's) and a RR that see the most use, but the HH with a well matched hitch and rope is a thing of beauty. Nothing compares to it's two finger release and ease of tuning to any...

https://www.masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?16936-Any-Rope-Wrench-or-Hitch-Hiker-users-here&p=651125&viewfull=1#post651125 https://www.masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?16936-Any-Rope-Wrench-or-Hitch-Hiker-users-here&p=658462&viewfull=1#post658462 It only took me 9 months to get 'a...

While I have only made them with the tubing, I suspect that even if it started out stiff enough to operate correctly, after you used the "little more flexibility" (bent or rolled) a few times, the webbing would flex too much to be reliably usable....and long term reliability is a good thing.

Yes, that's a 100% made be me knock off. After buying a BDB, I decided to make one. The only functional difference is that the hole spacing in the top arm is optimized for use with Yale 11.7 mm ropes and my usage. Gordon also seems to be willing to customize the spacing if desired/needed...

Randy...My BDB is pre-D-ring for tending, but your full size biner clipped directly to the D-ring looks like it would always be in an awkward position when you sit back. I suggest using a ~3" continuous loop of zing-it or dynaglide larks headed to the D-ring and clip into that (or something...