Search results for query: *

Something like that can be drained first. There should be a drain plug around back. Or bore in and wait for it to drain.

Makes sense. Was it from catching a top or heavy 'positive' lowering?? It's got a lot a of life in it, but it's just not as strong as before.

The ergonomics are better. I'm definitely for efficiency, however I'm thinking career long marathon not daily sprints. I have taken an hour for a hard shot at 80'. That's where the work was, 2 large fir branches to prune from over the house. It wasn't a tree to advance from the bottom...

Cutting for scale is its own skill.

Welcome! Glad to have you! -Southsoundtree on TB

I don't see the chain on my phone. If the chain dangles without girdling, it's a warning.

I only stand around in spurs when I don't have an overhead TIP. If I'm going from the ground up a tree, I throw my steel termination biner 5-10 feet up the tree, choke, sit, use spurs for positioning, sometimes stand up to cut, such as pushing a limb, then sit back down.

True. I was running the speedline to the spot directly behind the chipper, turning the butts onto the tray and pushing through. Dragging, especially uphill, sucks, especially when technique easily does the job. So many of our trees are either in a forest or in a heavily landscaped area...

That's an easily-mitigated fear. Build a crash pad.

I had a contract climber who was "just going to climb up there and set a high TIP, then come back down and start at the bottom". I suggested I throw in a line, which took one try for a solid, high TIP. Base-tie. 5 minutes to things going through the chipper. Setting a high rigging point or...

Yes, looking closer. @davidwyby what was the circumstance? Leather cambium/ rope savers are so quick and easy, plus cheap. Blocks/ rings cost more but also save ropes.

Some Colorado climbers, as mentioned in the first post. Throw lines save climbing, too be remotely-set/ retrieved rigging points.

Are the people who look down on throw lines really solid in their throw lining skills or climbing big trees?

A fork loader that will lift vehicles would do a lot. Do you know what kinds of diameter and number of trees? Are 40' logs any more per board-foot? Insignificant?

Just dirty or glazed/ fused fibers?

My neighbor Charlie, who has COPD, said that while salvage logging St. Helens, they put filters on everything but the people.

If you're looking to have a mill out there, have you looked into custom mill orders for beams or such for non-permitted use/ nongraded lumber? Nextdoor can be useful, along with Marketplace. Cedar fence boards go quickly. My neighbor suggests modern fir fencing and modern cedar are similar.

A self-loader is fast and efficient. If you have the means to load, and there is an unloading option, that's something. How long are you aiming for? How to load?

I climb both. An inability to set a throw line and rope- climb is a major liability IMO. Lots of people spur trees. I can spot the wounds years later. Some trees don't care much. Others do. Wraptoring for 15+ years and ropewalking for similar amounts.

Have you looked at who's buying? Have you investigated a Log Price sheet? Do you have any dimensions on the trees? How will the logs get moved to a log deck for a self- loader?