Recent content by sydneytree

Since you seem set on going with the OEM stuff, and you'll probably never use that tool again just drop by a few aluminum body shops or even ring round. Someone will have the tool and I'm sure they'd pop the rivets for you for a 6 pack of beer. Might make yourself a useful contact also...

they don't look all that strong. Were the original rivets aluminum or stainless?

I did a monkey puzzle once, got stabbed up pretty good. They're not common in aus. There are plenty of awful trees to work, and I say no to some of them. I don't find cottonwoods all that bad. Hardest trees to work are some of our eucs that gum up a saw in no time at all, they grow big...

thanks for the tips guys, will give it a go sometimes next week! Not sure what kind of looks I'll get from the lady in the supermarket buying ky and a bar of soap though! Over the last year I've cut the splices off 3 ropes, probably could of kept using them but once they get a nick or two...

washing it is something I haven't tried before. using the other end is something that I generally try to do, but I've got a habit of using my tail to lower off occasionally in tree, or as a second tie in, so the sheath has generally tightened.

Anyone had any luck or found tricks to make it work? I splice all my own ropes from new, it's mostly poison ivy. Splices up pretty nice and not too hard when new, but after using them a few months the spliced end starts getting a bit tatty, fraying/nicks or whatever and I never push my luck so...

Gibbon! <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/1AZn5nWIj_g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Absolutely we should need a license to operate a saw. And also a license to drink, have kids, use any kind of power tool, build anything, work on your own car, go into the outdoors, or talk. ;-)

It's a limited application technique for sure, but the few times you need it then it comes in handy. If you mostly work flat ground you'll rarely use it. If you can setup a crash pad made out of limbs or a perimeter of blocks to prevent bounce/roll or some combination then that's always going...

It isn't just the knot you choose, it's also how you tie it. I see guys from time to time tying a running bowline in such a way that as the strain takes up the knot won't choke. The side you tie it on can make all the difference. It isn't rocket science, but taking a moment when rigging to...

Yeah, well spotted Nick. It's not my first rodeo at the treehouse, I signed up as imagineero a few years back but due to some glitch in the software it wouldn't let me have it, then wouldn't let me use the email address I used for signing up either :-( I dutifully signed up again not long...

I think all the knots are just as fast to tie when you're familiar with them. For me it's the running bowline for general lowering off duties and I'll usually tie it by itself on rough barked limbs. I don't like to leave much of a butt, and I like to flush cut on the first cut on removals, not...