Tree felling vids

I prefer to just cut and run, and let the trees go where they please :) Kinda off topic, but what the hell does "gob" mean? I have a lot of computer pro timber fellers slathering my youtube channel with that terminology.

Gob, is a terminology we use in the UK for the face cut. Gob is slang for mouth.

Edit: Burnham beat me to it. I should have kept me gob shut! ;)
 
I don't get the "to avoid pulling hardwood fibers" thing at all.
Gut the middle of the hinge out, and leave the tree standing on two squares of sapwood as hinge.
I do that most of the time anyway, becasue on broad hardwood trees, you need all the speed you can get, to avoid hanging them up, unless you are clearcutting.
A gutted hinge will steer just as well as a full one, but the tree will gain initial speed better.
Same reason we always gut the hinge when falling a spar. Less work for those pulling on the rope.

Stig: (This is an honest question stemming from ignorance, and not a criticism of your post.) Do you really mean, "just as well," or do you mean, "very nearly as well." Sorry to split hairs. Also, when gutting out the hinge in bigger trees, do you not think that one runs the danger of "mushing out," the hinge from too much stem weight compression, thereby loosing the majority of out holding wood capacity?
 
Two squares of sapwood as Stig says is not alot of wood. Not enough in my opinion, I'd leave a little heartwood in there with the sapwood too.;)
 
I don't mark hinge on trees that size but I often do on big trees in a tight drop. It's quite nice when sometimes watching your off corner to know you're both on the same page. Heck, I mark the front corner on those tight falls, you can get near perfect precision that way.

I would gladly hear Stig talk to us a bit more on Danish technique. I'm pretty sure that Gerry recommends marking the corners with a lumber crayon for critical falls, and that most of the old-growth Redpig fallers do it pretty regularly. When I have to cut from both sides... I'm completely lost in the woods without marking the corners.
 
Critical falls where there is a lay with little room for error, I might mark the corners. Rather be a precise amateur than a pro that fails. :D
 
hahaha...well put, Jay. Lots of us, I suspect, don't get to do much full tree or big spar falling. I still labor to make back cuts level.

I saw my cousin take hay bailing twine and circle the tree from corner to corner of the face cut on a big sweetgum spar he had to fell beside his house. It was a great guide to help make a good back cut. I thought of it as a nice trick, not a rookie move.
 
Here's one I did recently...made some good noises...and I did score it some before making the back cut. Confession is good for the soul :D:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WiraygL1nxY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I never mark my corners, why bother you have to keep an eye on both ends of the hinge anyways.

When you have a hinge twice the width of your bar your going to have to walk around the tree several times to size up the gunsight and hinge thickness so how is a mark going to help?

Falling timber in the forest is totally different bird then urban felling as repitition makes perfect, as just allowing the position of the powerhead in the backcut is enough to determine even hinge thickness.........
 
I'm sure he made a few trips back and forth to the far hinge corner to make sure everything is square to his gunsight on first setting up the face.
Back cut same again make sure you don't cut through.........wouldn't you think Jay?

A tree like that felled in a urban setting that tight to targets....TAKE ALL THE TIME YOU NEED.
The tree has only been standing there for a couple of hundred years.:lol:
 
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