Storm Repair Spec make Sense?

treelooker

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Would this language work as a proposal or work order?

Silver maple but could be poplar, elm, willow oak... RR ice specs.jpg
 
The "Post-storm" box makes good sense to me. I'm a little confused by the first box, though. It sounds like those are recommendations for what you would have done if there hadn't been a storm. Why put that there?

Also, I've never heard a recommendation like "15-20% buds removed". Could you please explain that?
 
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" I'm a little confused by the first box, though. It sounds like those are recommendations for what you would have done if there hadn't been a storm. Why put that there?"

You're right; it belongs somewhere else.

"Also, I've never heard a recommendation like "15-20% buds removed". Could you please explain that?

The question is, what else besides buds are important and conceivable here. 'foliage' does not work in winter. 'crown' includes all tissue above the first branch, so 20% of crown volume is a lot of tree. It's the buds/aka meristematic tissue that matter, as the tree can't grow leaves without them.
 
Overall, I would say it works, and it well spec'ed, though I will see these as goals, rather than specs.

I would have a bit of hesitation guaranteeing something that is so remote from the initial assessor. Ability to reach some of the tips would mean possibly needing more advanced climbing or a lift than might be able to be seen from the ground. If it is a per-hour job with an unlimited budget, it would be easy. How would you word the work order for priorities within a time-frame or budget?

I had a badly beaten sycamore that was majorly ice damaged. I reduced to to laterals and buds. It took a LOT longer that I thought, in part because of doing it spurless (as normal) and having pick-up sticks of big hangers in the tree near the roof-line. Oh, and seeing a cracked lead over the neighbor kids play-set which I could never see from the ground, too. Many/ most tree co's would say cut it down. HOs wanted to save. HOs then didn't put aside any money for the longer term management of the tree after probably coming in at half or a quarter of removal costs. I suppose I should have put specifically on the work order what follow up work should be, and a timetable.


How can you say 15-20% when you have non-elective pruning to do? If its cracked wood, it goes, largely, right. The sycamore had 30-50% crown loss, so I pruned as lightly as was reasonable for safety (see kids playset), being mindful of the large storm caused bud loss.
 
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The goal or objective of the job would be 'A reasonably safe and healthy tree with minimal maintenance needs'. The instructions on what to cut are the specs.

The specs ideally come from the initial assessor--the more links in the communicaiton chain, the weaker.
Reaching tips is typically done with pole tools, though a lift is always nice.
There should be enough flexibility, by using ranges for instance, to fit within a time-frame or budget.
Experience, and knowledge of the crew's gear and abilities, is of course needed here.

Cracked wood often has to stay until the next visit, to avoid excess loss of crown. You're right; gotta get that followup committed and scheduled if you can. I still forget sometimes, or some owners are too ornery about it so I give up and hope for the best.
 
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Thanks for the explanation on the buds Guy. That makes good sense.

Glad you agree, Leon. When the standard comes out for public review, you'll probably see different language there. If 'buds' would be an improvement for you, *please* make a public comment!
 
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