SRT techniques for beginners

@Ryan Haha, I've done a few giveaways on my channel, but no grab bags yet. I certainly have enough!

A 24" hitch cord, as @CurSedVoyce said, is indeed pretty tight. You might not be able to get enough wraps in your hitches depending on the rope diameter being used, the chosen hitch and the desired wrap amount.

I believe that mechanicals are great, but there's nothing better than a hitch based system like an HH or a rope wrench. I have a Rope Runner pro and it doesn't perform as fluidly as any hitch system I've ever tried. The RRP is still great though. I definitely goes on and of faster and is more compact.
 
All that is above is true, but I argue one more point for mechanical devices: compactness.

The Uni, Rope Runner, and Akimbo are very compact devices, allowing you to rig your connection low and out of your face. Your milage may very, but that's something I find important, 80ft aloft with a 10kt breeze.

Also, all that "fluidity" hits the fan when sap has its say. Thick resinous conifer pitch has its own opinion of your hitch, regardless if it's cordage or mechanical.
 


Isolate sections of rope as you like.
I used a butterfly knot to connect to the two choking slings to direct my body weight down against the vines. Had I not used a butterfly to isolate that section of orange rope, but rather clipped the rope from the top anchor, I would have put in a MA, increasing load on the ivy anchors and directing the net force the wrong way for maximum ivy strength.
 
One point about hitch cord. Sewn eyes look like a blob eating up that much length at the end of a hitch leading one to surmise that a spliced eye without that blob would/could be more compact. However, the splice bury goes for a longer length than the sewn blob and in that length it does not behave as normal hitch cord, it's stiffer. So you can't have short legs from your carabiner to the hitch body. So it seems sewn eyes make a more compact hitch IME. Therefore less sitback too.
 
Ryan,
I am late to this thread. I bet you’ll love that rope wrench.
A few years back I gave a climber in Western Mass. a HH II to get him started. Since then he got a RopeRunner. I just texted to see if that HH might be collecting dust in his gear bag.
If so and he’ll return it I’ll gladly send it your way. I have my original HH and one of Richard’s HHXF. I also have some of the material to make a *HUT (Wesspur calls it a ‘Holster’)for advancing it - as developed by Walter Haulenbeek. I can cut, heat, and bend one up for you.

* HUT = Hold Up Thingie

I’ll let you know when I hear from the fellow,
Pat
IMG_8792.jpeg
 
For DdRT, if your tether allows, you can keep the Rope Wrench on the rope, disengaged. My ZK1 has a homemade tether that allows this. Occasionally, I switch from SRT to DdRT then back to SRT.

If I'm cutting, I change to SRT, mostly, knowing that in an emergency, I don't want simmering preventing my rope from moving. Even a limb can lock a RW system.

A HH works under tension. Once, I ascended a diagonal line to get at a dead top, only available with a HH! 17031830104866033536876576070035.jpg
 
I was wondering about detaching the RW in a Drt scenario but leaving it connected so I don't drop and lose anything. I was going to get a black one but opted for purple thinking it would be easier to find amongst branches and leaves.
 
Ryan said:
I was wondering about detaching the RW in a Drt scenario but leaving it connected so I don't drop and lose anything. I was going to get a black one but opted for purple thinking it would be easier to find amongst branches and leaves.
Click to expand...
Yes. A slic pic allows this.

Sometimes, I may DdRT from one trunk to another within the tree, with an easy retrieval, then resume SRT.
 
Don't hesitate with the Holster for an HH.
I faffed around for years with cord, got a Holster last year, bees knees like Stephen says.
Tree folk here are fab. I have a collection of items that have been sent to me over the years, and A few bit of mine have gone to new homes as well. Its what we do.
You'll enjoy your HH.
Tip: when tying your hitch, over tighten it before you tie the second stopper knot. It will seem too tight, but when your weight get on it, you'll realize why. Your weight stretches everything and over tight at first leads to just right when loaded and working.
 
Burnham,
I have one traced out on a flat sheet, ready to be cut out, heated and form-fitted. Wesspur would get one there more quickly, already formed, but if you’d like I could send this one out to you.
 
pigwot said:
Burnham,
I have one traced out on a flat sheet, ready to be cut out, heated and form-fitted. Wesspur would get one there more quickly, already formed, but if you’d like I could send this one out to you.
Click to expand...
@pigwot I'd take that in a heartbeat, Pat. Thank you very much. I'll message you an address.
 
I can't answer that for sure, but my impression was the original and 2 were identically sized, and the only difference was the materials on the body. Maybe someone who's used both can confirm?
 
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