Rock climbing has changed...

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Blinky

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Er, maybe indoor rock climbing was always like this and I just never knew about since I've generally avoided rock gyms. I'm trying it now cuz junior is into it and wants to go regularly.

I met a bunch of folks from meetups.com at a local gym for a few hours and Bryce and I mainly just climbed by ourselves. I was super disappointed at my finger strength, it's shit compared to the old days, but other than that it was great fun. 9000 square feet of gym with a thickly padded floor. They let you get your feet 15' of the deck without a rope so we fell and jumped and had a good time.

Then, I went to a different gym with the same group but no Bryce... there are some hot chicks in this group... a couple of'em approaching my age even. So they check me out on belay and I start climbing with the main guy who's only been climbing a few years... but he's supposed to be badass. I flashed every route he did and several he couldn't top out. I never even came off until I was on a 'yellow' route which was the gym's hardest level. This stuff was no higher than thirty feet so if you go fast there's no way you wear out. So, I thought that was a little odd but maybe he was having a bad day and I was having a good one.

Then we go for chow after and I get to talking to these guys. Most had climbed outdoors only once or twice. The red hot young guy (who was better than anybody else there) has lead but never placed his own pro... I think they call that 'Trad' now. WTF?!!

Man, when I started climbing I couldn't wait to get on lead. Now it's as if lead on regular rock is some exalted thing only for the most intrepid of souls.

You shoulda seen them when I showed the guy how to footlock. Suddenly we were surrounded by almost everybody in the gym. I could've charged for lessons!

Truly it was a fun experience, especially since I got to impress chicks and stuff but man, it's sooo different from the dirt bag days.
 
I may be completely wrong but my limited experience with indoor rock climbing gyms is that it's fun for people who don't really climb. Problem is it can get boring real quick for people who do climb and are proficient.

I went to the local gym a couple times about 5-6 years ago, when I was pretty close to being at the top of my game as far as climbing. My first visit I spent a few hours with a buddy and his teen son and got familiar with the place, belay methods, different rock techniques, etc. Second time I went alone and headed straight for the 'pro corner'. In an hour and a half I climbed every single station. Maybe not the most graceful, but I conquered the place. I left and never had the desire to return since.
 
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[...] I left and never had the desire to return since.

Must not have had the same chick factor... I'm definitely going back. Better than that though, after a few weeks I expect to have a little finger strength built up and I'm taking junior to Linville Gorge.

These meetups.com events are generally 15-20 people. I've been on hikes and to outdoor movies and art exhibits... there would be maybe one or two women that kinda interested me. I'm realistic, I don't give the under 40 ones a second look. But at this rock gym there were several smoking hot chicks including two women that were over 40. Gives me reason to hope anyway.

It's not real climbing to me so far, more of an upper body workout with a view.
 
Blinkey You might be going to the wrong Gym if you can do all the routes:) I personally cannot believe the freakin skill and power it takes to do modern hard climbing. I ran into this guy on Half Dome( Hanging from rope) and he is Dean Potter your typical professional rock climber. He was trying out some futuristic project at the time and I checked it out.. Way hard as I could not even see any handholds. Anyways you probably could not have found a better place to pick up chicks than a gym where you are able to dominate but climbing has gotten WAY harder difficulty wise than it used to. Happy climbing:)
 

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You sure have a nice backyard. Oh and I just love your new water feature!:D
 

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Well that is actually what is crazy. Climbing back in the day was this crazy off the grid endeavor which had like zero opportunity for making cash. Fast forward to today and practically every fitness gym has an indoor wall and so there is a way bigger population of climbers that all support the manufacturers who in turn pay folks like Dean Potter to dream up the next craziest adventure so they can get a picture of him doing it wearing their shoes or harness or rope. A pro climber could also guide or do photography, or write articles for the mags or guidebooks. If you are at the top of your game someone will cut the checks period.
 
Another little tid bit of info is in the bottom photo. It is what is called Elcap. The first ascents of this ( starting in the late fifties) took weeks and even months to accomplish. A profesional climber recently has free climbed this face twice in one day and the fastest non free ascent is like 2 hours and 45 minutes!
 
chip.....tis the season here...wanna go humble ourselves on some NC's granite.

perfect route for you..."Tits and Beer" used to be rated worlds hardest 5.8....think most folks call one move a 5.9+=10a...AWESOME route:D

old Fred is the REAL chick magnet;)
 

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One of my favorite Fred Beckey photos.
 

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  • #24
Wait a minute....:/: I thought you were sick.....:?:P

You guys missed my post in the 'How'd it go today' thread. Cipro is amazing. I was on it less than 24 hours and back full strength. I worked a full day yesterday. I feel MUCH better. The climbing gym stuff was a few days before.

Treecycle, yep, I'm well aware of modern standards... Dean Potter's girlfriend (Steph somebody?) makes me weak in the knees. These guys were all like IT guys, auto mechanics, students, stuff like that. I assume the gym standard was low to assure successes for that particular clientele. It definitely wasn't up to what I remember as 5.10.

The weird part is that they don't climb real rock... at least not often. To me, the gym is a place to keep in shape between climbing trips.

Bivyless... this October before or after the WWC TCC, I'm in for certain. It'll be a pleasure to be humbled. I gotta buy a new harness still, they didn't like my swami at the gym. I'm still a dirtbag.

Becky IS a chick magnet! I've seen the pictures.
 
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