Reaming

[davidwyby]

Been working on my tension/compression bucking, if in thought more than practice. I use round filed chain and have had a hard time reaming, getting pinched too much. It just occurred to me that one of the benefits of square filed chain is that it side cuts better, and maybe that works better for reaming as well. What say ye?

Any other input and advice appreciated.

Thanks, Merry Christmas!

 

[Dave Shepard]

I ream successfully with round. No issues. Keep practicing. Smaller logs are more diffucult.

 

[Kaveman]

Yeah Dave, I've gotta agree with Dave. Never had an issue reaming with round.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Keep wedges handy as you learn your reaming limits in binds.

 

[gf beranek]

The one sure thing I really liked about grinding square chain, over hand filing it, is the fact that you can dress the stone to get a full sharp on the side plate. Which, incidentally, removes a large portion of the gullet, too. And that makes cleaning the gullet super quick and EZ.

A full sharp on the side plate makes for a sweet cutting square chain. Not only when reaming, but also when shaving or cleaning the corner of a diagonal cut. No skipping at all.

 

[Nutball]

I wonder if too sharp and grabby of a side plate makes reaming more difficult and kickback more likely. I had a bad experience with a new round Stihl RS chain, where I had a very hard time advancing a cut if the tip was anywhere near in the cut. It would just climb out of the cut via the sides, not the very tip.

I think for reaming, you don't want an aggressive firewood chain, and continually try to advance the cut to avoid the saw climbing up into a pinch. One reason I don't like the squishy AV on new saws, is they can move a lot and kick and pinch before you have a chance to counter it.


I'm still a beginner when it comes to reaming.

 

[gf beranek]

Little things about sharpening saw-chain, almost imperceptible thing, can greatly alter the performance of how they cut.

 

[SeanKroll]

Tucker, a long ago member, taught us a trick that goes with, or eliminated the need for, reaming.

Start your top-bind bucking on top, progressing until the kerf is starting to close, ever so little. Cut a wood wedge from the end of the log. Let it fall into the kerf, lightly tapping it in the kerf with the bottom of the chain/ bar. Resume bucking, reaming in, as needed.

 

[Tree09]

If it's pinching your not reaming it enough, the saw should be cutting its own room as you go. As your cutting, watch the kerf, as soon as it makes any movement to close start your back and forth. You don't even need to go all the way thru or out, even doing at least half the diameter will allow it to settle but leave enough wood so you won't pinch as quickly, mess around a bit with it and you'll get it. Basically more in and out than down, because it's the back and forth that makes your room for you, once it starts moving you don't have much more to go until it settles. Then when they touch on top you can go all the way thru again and finish the cut, and the saw will cut room for itself as you go. If it's tight, ream it some more. Reaming really changed how i cut stuff, a definite before and after moment, and easily worth the cost for gftw alone. Thx @gf beranek!

 

[gf beranek]

Ah, you're welcome.

 

[davidwyby]

I think I’ve been trying in too small of wood

 

[gf beranek]

Yeah, small stems that are bound-up are hard to ream without getting stuck.

There's a definite threshold between log diameter, degree of bind and condition of the chain.

And you can't dismiss technique either.

 

[davidwyby]

I have a bunch of big pine and Euc logs n the yard…and a forklift 😁