Was helping a friend fell some pines on his property today (so he can expand his garden to huge-ness).
Noticed mainly when jacking the logs that my saw, while cutting, was going not straight down as I aimed it, but down and to the left (non-drive side of the saw). sometimes so much that it bogged and binded...you can look into the kerf and see "daylight" to the right of the bar as it drifts down and left.
Some data for you to work with, and some rule-outs so you don't waste key strokes...
SAW: STIHL MS 290 Farm Boss (3 months old)
BAR: Stock Bar
CHAIN: STIHL "green" oilomatic (or something like that)
Other notes:
Chain &Sharpness: I have the STIHL file guide (does teeth and rakers @ same time and has built in gauges), and I'm meticulous about using the same amount of strokes when I use it. I also swapped chains, and happens with both.
Experience: I'm not a ceritifed arborist, but I know my way around cutting, felling, and the tools of the trade.
None of my other saws have done this, so I'm doubting its a "hold" or "technique" thing...
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
R
Noticed mainly when jacking the logs that my saw, while cutting, was going not straight down as I aimed it, but down and to the left (non-drive side of the saw). sometimes so much that it bogged and binded...you can look into the kerf and see "daylight" to the right of the bar as it drifts down and left.
Some data for you to work with, and some rule-outs so you don't waste key strokes...
SAW: STIHL MS 290 Farm Boss (3 months old)
BAR: Stock Bar
CHAIN: STIHL "green" oilomatic (or something like that)
Other notes:
Chain &Sharpness: I have the STIHL file guide (does teeth and rakers @ same time and has built in gauges), and I'm meticulous about using the same amount of strokes when I use it. I also swapped chains, and happens with both.
Experience: I'm not a ceritifed arborist, but I know my way around cutting, felling, and the tools of the trade.
None of my other saws have done this, so I'm doubting its a "hold" or "technique" thing...
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
R