Al Smith
Mac Daddy
I flog them pretty hard but I don't wind em tight for a minute and a half .Now 30 seconds that I do .FWIW it takes a good amount of time to seat new rings on a used cylinder but given enough time they will seat .
MS201T
- Thread starter brendonv
- Start date
- Replies 913
- Views 148K
rskybiz
TreeHouser
That's my take on the break in procedure also. Willard your info on saw chain is amazing!
HolmenTree
Banned
I quess I'm still old school, but I like to ease my saws slowly for the first few tanks. Only exception is 3 new Husqvarna 576XP AutoTunes I received from my sponsor a few years ago for use in a chainsaw competition I put on one day a year. The factory tech letter says to run the saws in the biggest log possible for the first 5 minutes of use at WOT cutting off cookies. But the intention of this proccess is not centered on breaking in the piston rings, but to reset the onboard computer to richen the carb from the factory lean carb settings which were originally set to meet EPA regulations.
Joel I can only give credit to other treehousers for the saw chain info I have learned for use on a top handle saw. I think I have narrowed down the .325 Husqvarna H30 / Oregon 95VP-VPX micro chisel chain to be the best chain for Stihl MS200 and Husky 338XPT use.
I see Baileys sells the "improved" Oregon 95VPX. The VPX chain has blued cutters where the VP chain is not blued. The VPX is supposed to have better grind angles in the top plate.
If anyone needs part #s for the .325 drum/ sprocket and oil pump drive gear for both the Husky 338XPT and the Stihl Ms200, you can P.M. me. The Husky setup is not available in Canada. The Stihl not available in the U.S.
A narrow kerf bar is a must for this chain.
Magnus
TreeHouser
In factory saws are run WOT for emission and function tests. Cold start, primed and started. I think it was a 60 sek run.
Older saws you literally rev apart, but it is controlled on the new.
Don't do it unless the saw need it. If it has active ignition and controlled carb it needs it to set after your conditions.....
Older saws you literally rev apart, but it is controlled on the new.
Don't do it unless the saw need it. If it has active ignition and controlled carb it needs it to set after your conditions.....
I bought 2 201s (no 0200s available) to replace the stolen 200s and used them today and yesterday. Not trying to be inflammatory here but, so far, they are virtually junk. One runs better than the other and it is just so-so at best- kinda balky, not much power. It has about the power of a small Echo climbing saw.
The other one has VERY little power, as in GUTLESS, and has major hesitation 80% of the time when you hit the throttle. I've tried to richen the Low speed jet, no improvement yet. The saw takes like 2 minutes to warm up! Very lame. I've read some posts re how the 201 has more low speed torque than the 200. Having run the 201 now I see what they are talking about, but it's like good news/bad news: yeah it has more low speed torque, but a 200 doesn't need low speed torque cuz it's got too much balls to slow it down in the first place.
Another outfit was working nearby today, I could here his 200 ripping it up, the sound alone made me envious. I'm actually having to change the way I work a little, cuz I'm using a saw that is 20 to 50% less of a saw than the 200s I am used to.
Perhaps through carb adjusting, breaking in, and patience, they will improve. But, if you can still find a new 200 for sale, do yourself a favor and invest in peace of mind, purchase a legend.
The other one has VERY little power, as in GUTLESS, and has major hesitation 80% of the time when you hit the throttle. I've tried to richen the Low speed jet, no improvement yet. The saw takes like 2 minutes to warm up! Very lame. I've read some posts re how the 201 has more low speed torque than the 200. Having run the 201 now I see what they are talking about, but it's like good news/bad news: yeah it has more low speed torque, but a 200 doesn't need low speed torque cuz it's got too much balls to slow it down in the first place.
Another outfit was working nearby today, I could here his 200 ripping it up, the sound alone made me envious. I'm actually having to change the way I work a little, cuz I'm using a saw that is 20 to 50% less of a saw than the 200s I am used to.
Perhaps through carb adjusting, breaking in, and patience, they will improve. But, if you can still find a new 200 for sale, do yourself a favor and invest in peace of mind, purchase a legend.
Burnham
Woods walker
Makes the theft hurt even more.
Burnham
Woods walker
Reports on this saw are all over the map...very confusing. Squish says his is lousy, like yours. Brendon says his is as good as a 200. I dunno what to think.
FJR
Treehouser
Reviews all over the map indeed. I always have my 200t's, they are always in the truck, yet I still grab the 201. I don't have any of these problems I don't know whats up. Someone should let Stihl know though?
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Wonder where Eddy is, he might have some information.
arborworks1
Treehouser
You have to turn the low screw down to get rid of the hesitation. I was not impressed with mine the first few tanks of gas. But I kept at it and like a switch was flipped it perked up nicely. Then the muffler mod made it even better. I ran it all day today on a large removal. I will agree it doesn't have the top end like the 200 does. But I am running it a tad bit rich still.
Are you talking the muffler mod which involves drilling and soldering, or is there another?
I 've been trying not to go crazy on the carb adjustments since it is brand new, but I'll turn it down even more tomorrow. I probably turned it down a lil 5 times already, each time seemed to make no difference, I was wondering if maybe I needed a password to bypass the computer, or sumthing
I 've been trying not to go crazy on the carb adjustments since it is brand new, but I'll turn it down even more tomorrow. I probably turned it down a lil 5 times already, each time seemed to make no difference, I was wondering if maybe I needed a password to bypass the computer, or sumthing
arborworks1
Treehouser
No soldering. All I did to mine was take a dremel and a long reamer and open up the outlet. Guy at AS just drilled a hole behind the screen. Right into the side he then adjusted the plastic to accommodate the new port. Bare bones either option. I didn't like the idea of melting the plastic eventually.
If you figure out the password to bypass the computer, clue us in...
If you figure out the password to bypass the computer, clue us in...
brendonv
Tree Hugger
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #493
I said to myself Cory's going to be posting how he hates the saws after he gets them. Shoulda bet money on it.
They sure are sluggish at first, but pull the spark arrestor and just run it. You have to run it through wood, it'll never open up otherwise.
I have to say, yesterday mine started mysteriously reving out of the blue. That high rev you get before you run out of gas, but it was random and full of gas.
I'll run one of my 200ts next week, for self comparison again.
They sure are sluggish at first, but pull the spark arrestor and just run it. You have to run it through wood, it'll never open up otherwise.
I have to say, yesterday mine started mysteriously reving out of the blue. That high rev you get before you run out of gas, but it was random and full of gas.
I'll run one of my 200ts next week, for self comparison again.
PCTREE
Treehouser
Cory, that is a crying shame man. Ive got 2 brand new 200s sitting in the shop and the tight wad that I am that should last me 5 more years. Maybe till I retire......
PCTREE
Treehouser
HolmenTree;501059 If anyone needs part #s for the .325 drum/ sprocket and oil pump drive gear for both the Husky 338XPT and the Stihl Ms200 said:
HolmenTree
Banned
Paul the MS200 part# for the .325 spur sprocket drum and oil pump drive ring is 1129 640 2052. I paid approx $30-40 CDN for it from Stihl Canada. I'm not sure this kit is available in the U.S. but see your dealer anyway. It's an option for the MS200 rear handle saw.
I have tried the wider cutting 20LP .325 chisel but have now switched over to the H30 Husqvarna/ Oregon 95VP/VPX narrow kerf micro chisel chain. This NK holds alot better edge and is the fastest cutting .325 chain for the MS200. You'll also need a narrow kerf bar. On my 200 I run a Husqvarna 13" # 508 9261-56 [56 is 56 Drive links for 13"] Husky sells longer ones. Baileys has a selection of narrow kerf b/c in Carlton.
When you first use the .325 on a MS200 you will stall the chain easily in the cut because you're used to pushing and setting the dogs with the little 3/8 LoPro chain. Let this chain cut by its self, its very aggressive and cuts like crazy. The smaller radius narrow kerf bar nose is also a positive to help reduce kickback, especially when cutting aloft in a tree is usually done inches from your face, upper body.
If you're a "safe" 2 handed operator with the top handle saw then just get rid of the dogs and stalling will be almost non existent.
PCTREE
Treehouser
Ive never been accused of being "safe"
Reddog
TreeHouser
Stihl tech here said most need some major adjusting of the carb after a few tanks. Then they run pretty close to a 200.
Don't own one so just what I was told.
But makes sense the 441 is a little different to get set right also.
Don't own one so just what I was told.
But makes sense the 441 is a little different to get set right also.
So how do you get the arrestor out, dremel??
