Stretch is bad with a heavy leaner. You want more control, without fighting the stretch out, to start to actually pull.
With the stretch, especially with a long run of rope, you've stored pulling-energy in the tensioned, elastic rope.
If you pretensioned the rope, it will start to stretch and relax, as you cut your facecut.
Re-tension your rope when you're ready for the back cut, and you've removed the support of the facecut, from the column of wood.
As you back-cut, the elasticity of the rope keeps pulling. This can help pull over the tree while cutting, without additional tensioning.
You may put that in the bag of tricks, but don't think that's the only way.
A super static cable or rope will not lose distance (set back) as loaded, the tension will go up. (All things stretch a bit).
When you're tensioning a pull rope, you bend the tree to a degree, storing energy.
Often, one person will tension, while the other is judging tree-movement and tension.
Redirecting the rope back to the stump, anchored behind the stump, can allow you to do it all.
I've never done this, but it theoretically helps the one-man band.
Oh, if you have a super static pull, and you're wedging, too, you lose line tension quickly.
Also, you can hang a log, midspan on the pull line, then, tension your rope, this log will continue to keep tension on the line, as the tree comes over.
Beware of your load.
I've done this topping a back-leaning 4.5' Doug-fir with my loader and a sizeable log, and 1/2" low-stretch Stable Braid (10k breaking strength). The sizes you're dealing with are less.
I don't always take wedges and a hatchet for topping, but Absolutely, in this case.
If you stack wood on a bathroom scale, or have dumbbells, weight plates for bar bells, etc, you can learn your weights. You can probably find some logs around to weigh, somewhere.
Put a pulley in a tree, tie on weight, crank your puller. Pull with truck.
Bring in-line with a tensioned rope can be dangerous. Putting anything (blankets, ropes, chaps, jackets, etc) on the tensioned line is meant to reduce recoil if the loaded rope breaks.
Again, KISS. KISS. KISS.
Use what you need.
Buying a $1000 force-meter compared to the wood you have, and the $30 bathroom scale you can buy, or have.
Try to distill things down.
I use one rope and one Maasdam CRP as pull-rope, and anchor rope Most of the time. I could start bringing out more hear to use, carry bag to the truck, mentally-inventory back in helping to reduce logs, and actually put it away.
Hard to lose the rope puller, hooked to the rope bag. If I lose the rope puller, they're only about $50 on Amazon. The less gear you have out, the less likely you're going to forget something, necessitating a return trip after phone calls to track it down, or repurchasing.
I have a good bit of gear for special circumstances, but stick to basics when I can.
One throw line in a backpack rope bag, one M-crp, one rope, one saw, one ax and a bunch of wedges can tackle a slew of trees, with cutting skills.
Getting three ropes into a tree that an experienced Faller could wedge-over, ...KISS.
The above listed gear will get you through most trees you're cutting.