I Need to Buy a Drill for Bracing Trees

[Old Monkey]

I have been searching the site but can't find any information on good drills. I need to put two bolts in a maple tree next week and I need to buy a drill and a couple of bits. Any recommendations? I think I remember you guys saying not to buy a gas powered drill but that is all I remember.

 

[Thor's Hammer]

For small stuff I've used a 24v cordless, but for big stuff I use an air impact wrench, as it has the torque needed for difficult long holes.

 

[Bounce]

I've had good experience with an Echo gas powered drill. I didn't buy it though - it belonged to a tree service I used to work for. I used it a lot for doing deep soil aeration with a 18" augur bit.

 

[vharrison]

Darin, couldn't you just rent one?

 

[Old Monkey]

I suppose but I guess I just like tooling up.

 

[arborworks1]

I have a tanaka gas drill with reverse. It seems to have enough juice to get the job done. I haven't ran the five foot bit with it yet. It spins a sharp 24 incher no problem and then you can use it for vertimulching.

 

[wiley_p]

For the money spent, I'd get an electric 1/2" drive. The only downside is having a cord up in the air. It will spin the GRCS fine whereas a gas drill just can't do it. Also, it works great for vertical mulch scenarios.

 

[Mr. Sir]

I bought one a few years ago at Home Depot. 1/2" drive, variable speed reversible. I've drilled 5 foot by 3/4" holes in live oak with no trouble at all. I think it's a Black and Decker and it was about $100.00 if I recall. Make sure you get a heavy guage extension cord.

 

[brendonv]

I should probably sell my Stihl BT45 but once I do Ill regret it. It's been a kick ass drill for aerating soil, never used it to drill wood yet though, and havn't used it in ages.

 

[sotc]

ive got the stihl gas drill, bought it used for 200. dont think its worth the new price but definatley worth 200. ive used a milwaukee 1/2" magnum and it does well. just be sure that if you need extensions on your drill bits that you buy the ones with set screws so you can actually pull on it in reverse or you may your bit in the tree!

 

[No_Bivy]

hole hawg....awesome power

 

[stehansen]

I've only done a couple and I used a 1/2" electric and my generator. I think a gas drill would be better, but I'm using what I have. I bought a bit and then welded a 4' long piece of potato chain rod on it for an extension.

 

[Altissimus]

I don't do very much bracing , but when doing it I have rented the Tanaka w/reverse it does a great job .... besides arborists the drill only goes out with landscapers in the fall (bulbs) ... I think the rental guy wanted me to buy it ...

 

[pigwot]

I have had a gas powered Tanaka since 1989. It has and still does work quite well. Keep your bits cleaned and sanitized between trees, well-sharpened and clear the chips every few inches (especially if you're running a three foot or larger bit through).

I 'loaned' my drill and a four foot long 3/4" bit to a former employer, an ISA Certified tree man who usually has a good head on his shoulders. After a week I called and asked if I could get them back. He said, "Oh, sure, the drill I can drop off, but that damn bit you gave me was no good. It got stuck in this White Oak". I went and found the tree, climbed up and found the twisted-beyond-use bit halfway into the main juncture of the tree at 25 feet up. I backed the bit out with a Vise-Grips and a large cheater. The next time he asked to borrow anything I just laughed and walked away. Still have that bit, with a slight s-curve to it. Drill those long trunk holes from the bucket. You can't hold yourself steady enough hanging from a climbing line with four feet of bit and a foot and a half of drill in front of you, even with a long flip strap around the trunk. Too much torque.

One of the local companies I currently climb for has the Echo. It is smaller than my Tanaka and not as gutsy on the lengthier drilling. I've used an electric drill on some smaller stuff, but those long extension cords drop the actual amp rating of your tool through line loss, and tend to burn up the brushes in the drill. Go gas and enjoy the strength and portability.

 

[Burnham]

I have used the Stihl BT45 loads in doing the heartrot inoculation work for the FS. I would be surprised if it had the guts to drive long bits of large diameter...I would drill 8 inches deep, 3/4" diameter and even with frequent chip reaming, it's working pretty hard.

 

[Bodean]

The echo is suprisingly good. First pic, driving 3/4 rod up to 4-5 feet.
Linseed oil, multiple stems.

The hole hawg rips. Second pic isn't a hole hawg, I don't think, drove the braces in with a trick socket like butter, multiple stems with linseed oil.

The stihl, I'll agree with Burn, this thing lags in a bad way.
Seemed the bit always slipped too. Third pic.

Do you guys use trick sockets to drive braces/rods or do you use the double nut?

 

[sotc]

whats a trick socket?

 

[Bodean]

If I remember I'll get a pic tommorow at work.
Pic 2 has the socket on the right angle drill.

I think it's a 1 1/16th socket for 3/4 inch thread brace.

You fill the socket with weld while the bracerod is inserted, thus casting the threads to the socket.
I'll ask tomorrow to see if that's right.
The double nut thing sucks, IMO.
The thing with the trick socket is there is no reverseing out the brace, gotta use the double nut technique.

 

[Old Monkey]

I think I am going to go electric because I will probably have more use for an electric drill. What size bolts do you guys use typically?

 

[Mr. Sir]

Depends on the size of the leads. Do you have the ANSI standards or a BMP guide?

 

[Old Monkey]

I am going to order the ANSI standards. Its been a little bit since I bid the job but I think the two stems are 10-14" and about 45' tall. I am going to put a cable in the top as well. The tree is still relatively young.

 

[Mr. Sir]

I'd use 1/2" or larger for the rod and 1/4" or larger EHS for the cable (unless you use that new fangled stretchy stuff)

 

[stehansen]

The only rod I put in was 3/4" and I drilled a 13/16" hole so it was pretty easy to drive the bolt in. Bugger to drill though. Would go about 2" and then have to pull out to get rid of the chips. You can kind of see one of the ends of the bolt in this picture.

 

[Paul B]

Devon, I have the standard and the BMP. I should be home most of tomorrow afternoon if you want, Skype me and I can try to give you the details if you like. Save you some time waiting on your copies, if its an issue.

 

[Al Smith]

Buy a good heavy duty electric drill and your grand children could use it most likely . Make sure it has a good chuck ,Jacobs are the best .

You have to fiddle and fart around with a gas drill ,the electric you just hit the trigger and hang on .Besides that you might want to drill a hole in the house some time .A gas drill would really not be the thing to run inside unless you wanted the Mrs. a little irate with you .That ,I might add ,is not a good plan .