How do you flush cut a large stump?

I ream-out the last little bit of the stump/log. That way it don't sit down on my bar like Jamin's. Who cares about a tiny little added depression in the flush-cut, and/or log? Shoot... a pretty stump is one with a perfectly sawn Humboldt still in it.

But any whiskers cut off.
 
Cut a notch in your stump. Take the saw bar and smack the notch into the stump. It acts as a wedge. Saw in from the other side. When the reach where you cut the notch, the stump is held up by that notch. Pull your saw out and call it done.
 
You must have learned that from your uncle.
 
That's a clever way of doing it Chris. I'll try that out next time I don't have a plastic wedge easily on hand.
 
I learned that from him when I was 16 on a lot clearing job bucking fat tulip poplars. pressure on top of the trunk, tension on the bottom. Saw into the top 8 inches. stop. saw in at an angle so that first cut becomes a wedge. Tap it downward with the saw bar. Stick your bar through the log and keep cutting. No pinch.
 
the two kerfs you make when you make that wedge, allow that wedge to drop into the log and half inch or so and act as a slightly driven in wedge.
 
I learned that from him when I was 16 on a lot clearing job bucking fat tulip poplars. pressure on top of the trunk, tension on the bottom. Saw into the top 8 inches. stop. saw in at an angle so that first cut becomes a wedge. Tap it downward with the saw bar. Stick your bar through the log and keep cutting. No pinch.

I learned that from you, Chris, when I was 39 on the TH. Swear to god you got credit (well "I got this from a guy on the Tree House") when I taught it to the new guy last week on a cedar job.

I taught that to my old SPs boss who has done trees for close to 50 years in the PNW.

Now I know it for stumps. Sweet.

Thanks!
 
Chris, I have blown a couple of minds on old loggers with that trick. I had never heard of it myself, till i got it from you.

I always say I learned it from an American faller, sounds more impressive than from smart guy on an internet site.

It is sooooo handy for bucking a log when your wedges are at the stump.

Never thought of using it for stumps, I'll look forward to giving it a try.
 
Since I learned it from Chris, I have shown it a time or two and I use it on stumps. It doesn't always go as planned with stumps, but works well.
 
Sure, you were raised in a chip truck basically, worked with your hardcore uncle for years and years, and that's the only trick he showed you? Um, no.
 
Most of my climbing skills I didn't learn from him. When I came of age to get into the tree I lived 130 miles away. I learned most (of the stuff you CAN learn by watching) from a guy named Ed Dowd. A 30 year climber for Bartlett and Davey that moved back to this area for a few years. He is a safe, calculated, methodical, and efficient climber. Not as a fast as my uncle, but wont make your hackles raise either. Ed worked for me every Saturday for the first 5 years I was in business and mentored the shit out of me. I can never repay what he did for me and the safety he branded into my mind. Ed was very patient with me and never stopped putting effort into growing my business. Fixed trucks with me for free. Gave me half of his tools during my leaner years. Checked in on me 3 days a week to make sure I wasn't getting into something I shouldn't. Never for any personal gain either. Because he cared about me and wanted me to succeed.
 
I've never heard of that trick, Chris, but I'll give it a try sometime. I usually just ream it when there it top bind. I learned that from Jerry B.
 
Yeah, lets hear it for ed dowd, and all his ilk:thumbup:
 
It is WAY faster than reaming.
When you cut to scale, every little advantage matters.

The reason I'm fast is that the old guy who trained me, taught me to look at what I'm doing and cut away any unnecessary moves.
That is why I'm hard at people who spend undue time fuzzing around, checking where their bar tip is, hinge thickness etc, when dropping a tree.

Same thing goes for working in a tree. Be aware of what you are doing and work on leaning out your working tecnique.
Any unnecessary move is a wasted one.
 
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