Hitch Hiker Reviews

Another thing to mention as a distinction between the HH and RW is that since the RW has to be pushed up and engaged, then the hitch loaded in order to not lock up the hitch, the HH can be used to sit full weight on, and then break free more easily. I was using the hitch to rest between lifting/ setting the pantin, then stepping up and sliding the HH manually.

I also used my lanyard to make an adjustable footloop for my left foot which I attached to my bridge ring, while Pantin-ing with my right foot, and used Jaime/ Porkbrick's sling from HH biner to hand to advance the HH, while using my hands one over the other.
 
bonner1040 said:
I have poison hivee or ivy or whatnot and no flattening.
Click to expand...

I suspect that it was worked out in the production models. I'm around 195, btw, which I believe is a noticeable amount more than you, IIRC from previous discussion.

Are you able to distinguish between loading among the biner, dogbone, and hitch? I have one of the earlier prototypes and dogbones, so I think that the fine tuning likely took care of the minor issues that I'm having.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #154
I am 175 lbs give or take... I don't distinguish between loading the individual components, however it is easier to distinguish the parts as they unload. To my recollection it all loads simultaneously, but I havent been looking for it. I use a 6/0 or a 7/0 VT like knot with HRC cord.
 
SouthSoundTree said:
...
I also used my lanyard to make an adjustable footloop for my left foot which I attached to my bridge ring, while Pantin-ing with my right foot, and used Jaime/ Porkbrick's sling from HH biner to hand to advance the HH, while using my hands one over the other.
Click to expand...

That sounds interesting, Sean. Could you post a picture, please?
 
Sean, I've seen the flattening you're talking about. I'm around 215 at 6'.

I've had this happen with other mechanical "hitches". The unicender slightly and the spiderjack significantly. It goes away as the rope gets worked. No problems at all.

I'd be interested in seeing the lanyard footloop as well.
 
My stuff is all locked in the truck, requiring lifting the dump bed to pull the security bars, and I am on daddy-duty at the moment.

hopefully, one hand typing can suffice for now.

Disconnect rope lanyard from D's.
Connect lanyard hitch biner to bridge ring.
Form a foot loop by simply clove hitching lanyard termination biner (still at end of lanyard) to lanyard about a foot from end.
Adjust overall length between footloop and bridge ring connection via lanyard hitch.

Does this make sense?
 
HHs will flatten your rope to some degree. This is not "damaging" the rope merely distorting its shape. I have climbed on them extensively and am very comfortable with this issue/ non issue.

One thing that I should probably include in the instructions is when you first start using the HH you should go ahead and order some 10mm Bline . I am getting about 2 months out of my hitch cord but I tell ya what when it starts loosing its grip it does so fast. I dont think this is a hazard as it happens over a few days but as soon as you notice that hitch creeping when you bounce on it you only have 2 more days to replace cordage..... This came to mind last Tues as we had a big poplar removal and I had forgotten again to replace the cord. Kinda spooky at 90' dangling on a rope and creeping downward.......
 
Great word to the wise, Paul. Let's just have a spare in the kit bag as a matter of course...and when that one goes into use, another needs to go in the bag, as another matter of course.
 
That's interesting, Paul. I remember recently reading that some have experienced increased hitch cord life with SRT, compared to DdRT, because of the lower rope speed and less rope travel through the hitch.
 
Hey folks,
Check this out. I use a Metolius Monster daisy chain (rated) or Sterling's Chain Reactor (14kn) for both my tether and footloop. This allows the HH to act as a handled ascender withou the toothed cams. I advance with a Pantin and footloop. Great for extended limbwalks and if I want the HH closer to my bridge, then I just lanyard in and clip the HH back to my bridge.
Here is a link to a utube video that I made. Walking Hiker.jpg
www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhjrvBKo5Z8
 
That's great, Don! You don't need to add the advancing loop to the HH with that system ... and no annoying neck loop. Nice ... very nice indeed!!! :thumbup::thumbup:

I've got the Metolius and will have to try that, IF it evvvver stops raining. :)







BTW ... welcome to TH! ;)
 
Thanks Jack,
I see your from Western MD? I'm kinda right up the road from you in Tyrone, PA . I do a fair amount of work at Deep Creek Lake with my other, other full-time job...ropes course builder/trainer/inspector. I think you'll like the Metolius set-up, so simple. Sterling Rope is comming out with a new rated chain reactor, as soon as the come out with their new rigging and climbing lines....shhhhh

Donny
 
Yeah, Donny ... I'm about 2-1/2 hours South (Boonsboro) ... might be good to GTG for a rec climb sometime when the weather gets more predictable.

-Jack
 
Paul, do you have any pictures of what the hitch cord looked like when it no longer worked. I can't remember ever using a cord to this point, though I am finding out that does not mean never happened, just means I can't remember.

Dave
 
That seems like a plan. I know right where your at. I had family down there. Have you seen the new TCIA's Best Practices for SRT in Arboriculture. That's my labor of love for the past year and a half. What about trying to get a SRT two day workshop in your area? Maybe have the MAC ISA join in?
 
dcoffey said:
... This allows the HH to act as a handled ascender withou the toothed cams. I advance with a Pantin and footloop. Great for extended limbwalks and if I want the HH closer to my bridge, then I just lanyard in and clip the HH back to my bridge.
Click to expand...

Hey,Donny! I was just trying to explain using the HH on a tether over on the UK sight, in the HH thread. I don't think my expansions helped in any way. Maybe you could check it out and do a clarifying post.

Dave
 
Hey Dave,
I miss not having our weekly review team webinars....lol. I'll cut and paste and senit it to the UK. I saw your post there and it looked like they were a little confused. hopefully the pic and video helps.
 
Hahaha, you guys! Yes I was definitely a bit confused. It's clear in my head now and I'm going straight back there now to view Donny's video as I couldn't see it on the iPhone.
Thanks for your help chaps.
 
PCTREE said:
HHs will flatten your rope to some degree. This is not "damaging" the rope merely distorting its shape. I have climbed on them extensively and am very comfortable with this issue/ non issue.

One thing that I should probably include in the instructions is when you first start using the HH you should go ahead and order some 10mm Bline . I am getting about 2 months out of my hitch cord but I tell ya what when it starts loosing its grip it does so fast. I dont think this is a hazard as it happens over a few days but as soon as you notice that hitch creeping when you bounce on it you only have 2 more days to replace cordage..... This came to mind last Tues as we had a big poplar removal and I had forgotten again to replace the cord. Kinda spooky at 90' dangling on a rope and creeping downward.......
Click to expand...

Here's a thought, Paul:

What might be happening with hitch wear associated with the HH is that it always wears the exact same strip on the cord with every run. I've noticed a narrow distinct stripe on the hitch cord. I'm willing to believe that if both stoppers were periodically retied so the hitch cord got rotated and the wear spread over different areas, then the cord would last a lot longer. IDK, that's just guessing.

It would be interesting to hear Dave's experiences on hitch cord wear. :)
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #172
Jack said:
I'm willing to believe that if both stoppers were periodically retied so the hitch cord got rotated and the wear spread over different areas, then the cord would last a lot longer.
Click to expand...


I think that holds water! On my unit I have never untied the fishermans knot on the one side which sets against the dog bone the same way each time. I havent had any negative wear issues with the HRC I am using, so far its gotten better actually.

With the spine facing away from you, has anyone noticed a difference from starting the hitch behind the line vs in front of the line. Do you notice it forming braids vs twists either way.
 
Jack I try to retye the stoppers to do that however I have found it doesn't work for me as the cord seems to get a memory of the knot and ends up realigning itself in the old spot. Maybe I should try it earlier before the memory is set.....
 
Jack said:
... I'm willing to believe that if both stoppers were periodically retied so the hitch cord got rotated and the wear spread over different areas, then the cord would last a lot longer. IDK, that's just guessing.... :)
Click to expand...

Jack, a few years ago, when e2e hitches and their systems were not so refined, there were a fair number of climbers that would leave their hitches permanently tied on their lines. I remember some discussions wondering about the possibility of increased wear, do to lack of rotation and the constant contact patch. Some testing was done and I believe the results showed that was not the case. In fact there was some evidence that trying to re-bend some of the synthetic fibers caused more strength loss.

I'm sorry I can't fined any of the hard data but what I walked away with is that hitch wear can be influenced by many things. I have been using the same 10mm bee line for about three months, without rotating the bends or knots and it is still working, though it definitely has formed a shape memory.

Dave
 
I would be more worried about the lack of inspection of the complete cordage being tied all the time than anything else. I rotate mine each climb just for even wear on the cover. As far as strength loss... that would be about a third concern. Cordage is so cheap for the amount necessary for a friction hitch, best just to inspect and replace regular. A $35.00 eye2eye is cheap to replace when you are taling life support and in the scheme of things.
 
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