First time rebuilder question

[1savagehunter]

Ok I want to do a rebuild on a commercial grade saw and I found a sweet opportunity to get my hand on a variety of reject saws at a VERY good price. I was thinking one of the following Husky 272/372/365 or Stihl 260/361/440/460. Can anyone tell me which would be a good saw to start with. I'm eager to get at it but don't want to bit off more than I can handle the first time around. Any help on this project would be most helpful.

 

[Al Smith]

Any of them will work ,just depends on how badly they are screwed up as to what needs done .Sometimes not much ,sometimes a whole bunch .

If say it's just a top end rework meaning piston/cylinder ,that's not a big deal .A case split because of a wrung out main bearing is more involved .Look at it like this ,you won't learn any younger .

 

[1savagehunter]

Any of them will work ,just depends on how badly they are screwed up as to what needs done .Sometimes not much ,sometimes a whole bunch .

If say it's just a top end rework meaning piston/cylinder ,that's not a big deal .A case split because of a wrung out main bearing is more involved .Look at it like this ,you won't learn any younger .

ok let's say if I gave you a choice of the saws listed any easier than other the work on? How about Husky vs. stihl ... either easier to work on? Seems that husky parts are abit cheaper priced. Another question ... if you are doing top end rebuilds do you like origional parts or after market?

 

[Cobleskill]

You can aftermarket for half the price and the quality of the better brands is acceptable. Meteor being one. One thing I have heard is to get the factory clips for the piston pin.

 

[woodworkingboy]

There are some little tips about putting a saw back together that can come in handy, so maybe a manual on the subject might be helpful. Since Tom mentioned it, the piston retaining clips should have the rounded part in line with the piston movement, either facing up or down. Be sure to oil the cylinder walls before assembly....torque ratings, that kind of thing.

 

[Al Smith]

Well my choice would be Stihl but that's only because I'm more familiar with them .As far as parts I've used both OEM or aftermarket and with few exceptions the after market has worked well .

As far as Husqvarna ,they seem to be dandy saws but with few exceptions I've personally never did much work on any .I think I peeled the top off a 181 once to do some clean up and disected and reassembled a few 335's but that's about it as far as actual engine work . The pot lickers( Huskys) will certainly run though ,I'll give 'em that .

 

[1savagehunter]

Thanks ...will see what I can get my hands on first. I will definately get the work manuel for the saw I get they are typically very easy to come by. Well here is wishing you all a merry Christmas and an even better New Years.

 

[SkwerI]

A big factor is determining the cause of failure, more so than the brand or model of saw. All of your pro saws will be about the same as far as difficulty to work on. Some repairs are harder than others.

In 25 years I've never found a good reason to open up the bottom end of a saw. IMO it is just not worth it. If the saw is that worn out then it's time to move on. Top ends are usually very straight forward. Find a saw that lean seized and lunched the piston (biggest cause of dead saws). Buy a decent aftermarket kit and figure out what caused the lean condition. It's usually the carb, intake boot or cracked fuel/impulse line. I had one where the idiot removed the fuel pickup filter and ran it for a year before killing it. Every time he tipped the saw forward in a cut it picked the fuel line up and sucked air.

 

[sotc]

Buy some good quality burrs. I think a bigger saw would be a little easier to work with/in/on. My 260's were not hard, just a tight fit in the cutting polishing phase

 

[Al Smith]

Well it's one thing to have a good depenable saw to make living with of which of course you would want the best .However on these cheapies or freebies you can spend the time on a lower end if you are inclined to do so .It's more time though than money usually .

Oh there are tricks no doubt on repairing a spun out bearing pocket or a cracked seal pocket and certainly not something everyone is adept at doing .My endeavers of salvaging dead saws has worked out for me but once again they don't put beans on my table nor pay the rent .