cylinder porting

Climbhigh

TreeHouser
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Apr 8, 2015
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I have a couple of tired saws( 026 pro and MS-192) so I thought I would try a little light cylinder porting. I don't want to just start grinding away.I have been searching around for specs and jetting info but cant find anything. I have ported several 2 stroke motors with great results( jetskis and motorcycles) but that was with cylinder blueprints and jetting specs.Those were reed valve motors and Chainsaws are piston port. Just wondering if anyone has run across any detailed info on the subject. thanks!
 
Remember try not to go up or down AS much as side to side cause correct me if im wrong but u get into port timing and that's another animal.
 
Map it out like that guy did with a red pin. To me it looked like he just squares it off probably for a nice woods port.
 
Don't forget about rest of engine. Case, fuel system, muffler side..
It is all in it together and changing one is like putting a 17" wheel on a car with three other 15" wheels.
It works, probably better, but would be a hole lot better if all is looked over...

Porting intake and out change timing of ports more than flow of fume.
Porting transfers is never a bad thing if the surface left is super smooth. Changing timing on port is not away's a good thing. Keep in mind transfers do half the job, pressure do the rest. How it flows up over piston and pressure there and in case is the things to think about.

It is like a wood barrel. Change a part of it may help, but changing all to same height is better.

Ignition and Fuel systems need some attention too in most cases.
 
All depends on the given saw you're working on, eh Magnus?

I was told that a flywheel timing advance on the old 201's (about 8 degrees) was a really good idea. But on a 200t, it will actually make it loose a tiny bit.
 
Yes, it depends a bit how much it affect, but all is configured together for a certain goal.
Changing this mean you need to make more than one change to get desired affect.

It is like when you open muffler or change intake. To get something out of it other than sound change it needs to be reset to accommodate new configuration with changes in pressures etc..
 
That's why I seldom port cylinders now. Always feel like I'm missing out though.

I suppose you know about a Canadian youtube guy called mweba1. That guy's awesome.
 
Porting is an over used word ,
Just opening up the muffler and raising the compression ratio gives the best basic easy to do gains
 
Raising compression is a debated issue. I think it is better to use the volume and fill it up better with more stuff that can expand and create power.
Others lower volume with pop ups and lower cylinders.

Best I got out of a 154 was when I put a 4 times thick gasket, lowered intake same distance and put bigger carb, intake and filter system on.
That thing cut better than a 372 in a 20" elm, 24" as well......
I blew it up when experimenting with port flow and piston ports... It was negligence at my part, residue found in rod bearing from porting. This caused bearing to fail. It is on a shelf now reminding me of day's past and lessons learned.
 
I believe that Mastermind will help you out with port timing numbers, if you ask him nicely... Just send him a PM. He's always been willing to help me out, and even sent me a ported cylinder to replace one that someone else ported and turned out to be junk, and didn't charge me a dime for it.
 
Just opening up the muffler and raising the compression ratio gives the best basic easy to do gains
This is true for certain saws, the 359 Husqvarna being a good example. Removing the base gasket and opening up the muffler really wakes up a 359, but some saws it doesn't make much difference at all.
 
Every factory saw has some room for improvement into a higher compression ratio.
I have a few older Huskies that have two different thickness base gaskets.
 
That is a bit tricky. I had a couple of them and it will not perform well without or with thin.
Acceleration will be about the same but no umpf in it in the log.
 
I believe that Mastermind will help you out with port timing numbers, if you ask him nicely... Just send him a PM. He's always been willing to help me out, and even sent me a ported cylinder to replace one that someone else ported and turned out to be junk, and didn't charge me a dime for it.

Yeah, Randy's gotta be one of the coolest guys in the world. I called him up when I was zipping my 201. He literally walked me through everything I had to do to it over the phone for free. It ended up being the best work I had ever done to a saw.
 
This is true for certain saws, the 359 Husqvarna being a good example. Removing the base gasket and opening up the muffler really wakes up a 359, but some saws it doesn't make much difference at all.

Wonder wat it'd do to a t540? :/:
 
These X-Torq engines react more different for each saw I tried. I can't say I got same result as I do on some others like 357/359.
 
After work I'll try to dredge up a short vid from mweba1 on youtube to show you some intake port work that he's pioneering for the x-torx. Looks like amazing stuff, but I'm curious as to what you'll think. He explains it all really well.
 
On the 260 don't go up or down more than about .040", most of the gain will be widening the ports. Raising and lowering too much will change the horsepower band, widening will increase the torque band.
Take the cylinder off, remove the base gasket then hold some solder on the outside edges of the piston with grease, four places is best, three will work, put the cylinder back on and rotate the crank twice. Pull the solder out and measure the thickness of it. Anything less than .019" on that engine needs a gasket, but I doubt it will be that tight. Most of the saws I've done, Husky's, come right at .019-.022" without the gasket, Then I use an Anaerobic sealant, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/anaerobic-gasket-maker-51813?gclid=CMGk4PihiMUCFYyTfgodTxEAyg instead of a gasket.
Now on widening the ports, in the .066 vid he talks about the skirt width, but you will also have to keep in mind catching rings, not only do you need to round and smooth all edges inside the cylinder, you need to keep it under 80% of the piston width. Any wider and you have a chance of hanging up the rings and breaking them!
The muffler, try to stay around 75% of the exh port diameter, keep a little back pressure on it.
Shouldn't be any need to re-jet the carb at this level, cut off the limiters and adjust it until it's happy. A little on the rich side isn't a bad plan.
The 192, meh! I can talk you through a muffler mod, but I can't say I'd waste much more time than that on them silly things! Terribly hard to work on, terribly finicky about any changes, just a real pain in the ass all the way around! Once you start looking at it, I think you'll agree, it's just not worth the hassle.
Keep in mind, this isn't the rocket science, or black magic many want you to think it is. I had a Husky 346xp that I'd been into three times and still wasn't happy with. One night I was drunk, had some good music on, the weather was nice, so I tore down my Husky 350 and ported it. I still have the 350, but the 346 is long gone!
 
Funny story Andy... and thanks tons for the tips!

Magnus: Here's that short, but very informative vid. I think you'll totally agree with what he has to say about stratified motors. Whether you'll agree to his (to my mind, unusual) porting strategy, is another matter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYeE7QNyn9Q&authuser=1

Forgot to mention: He's got a short before and after vid of the little 540 he ported. I'd be happy to throw that up if you want. Lovely gains.
 
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