SouthSoundTree-
TreeHouser
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What signs point to needing to close your bar rails (narrow the gauge of the bar back to matching the gauge of the chain). Do you use a hammer or roller tool, or send it out/ replace it?
Closing bar rails back to spec
- Thread starter SouthSoundTree-
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rbtree
Climbing Up
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- Jun 22, 2005
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It's not possible to do a proper job with that Bailey's tool....... maybe the hammer trick could work, but it would be hard to get the rails uniform and even width in depth.
www.chainbar.com is in SE Portland. They are the only place that does proper bar rejuvenation.... I've had 20 or so done, and they end up like a new bar..... $7-12 depending on length. I deal direct rather than mail to save shipping costs....
www.chainbar.com is in SE Portland. They are the only place that does proper bar rejuvenation.... I've had 20 or so done, and they end up like a new bar..... $7-12 depending on length. I deal direct rather than mail to save shipping costs....
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
I've never had the need...
Magnus
TreeHouser
It depends on why it is wider. Is it bent or worn?
It also depend on what bars you have and chains you run. It's not all bars that you do good to fix up.
If it is a cheep laminated bar I would not do anything but replace.
Closing rails that is worn out usually isn't doing much good as they can't be closed in bottom or cut down in bottom of groove. This leads to a wiggling chain that fast get wrong wear and will not function right.
Most for the buck you get if you get a good bar, new rim and 10 chains you rotate.
It also depend on what bars you have and chains you run. It's not all bars that you do good to fix up.
If it is a cheep laminated bar I would not do anything but replace.
Closing rails that is worn out usually isn't doing much good as they can't be closed in bottom or cut down in bottom of groove. This leads to a wiggling chain that fast get wrong wear and will not function right.
Most for the buck you get if you get a good bar, new rim and 10 chains you rotate.
flushcut
TreeHouser
I use the roller thing that Bailey's sells it works but it is very easy to go to far and then you need to pry the rails apart with a screw driver.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Putting the right size long shim in and clamping between jaws in a vice, I think works better than tapping on the bar with a hammer.
rbtree
Climbing Up
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- Jun 22, 2005
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- 1,924
Magnus, I did have a few laminated bars restored by chainbar.com last time. They worked fine, for the price.....
They can restore any bar to like new. No other method can do as well. They actually regroove after squeezing the groove, so the groove is uniform in width throughout its depth. And make sure the rails are straight, and the bar has no bends. Well worth the money.
They can restore any bar to like new. No other method can do as well. They actually regroove after squeezing the groove, so the groove is uniform in width throughout its depth. And make sure the rails are straight, and the bar has no bends. Well worth the money.
Magnus
TreeHouser
I regroove bars and not many of the laminated bars can be cut. The center plate is to low in hight so you cut in rivets almost instantly.
2mm is usually it, and that is not enough to do it right and lasting.
Not all bars have sprockets you can get seperately either.
If it is just slightly worn it is no problem, just dress the rails and if possible close them a fraction.
Most important is the contact surface the tiestraps and rails have. It should be as large as possible.
2mm is usually it, and that is not enough to do it right and lasting.
Not all bars have sprockets you can get seperately either.
If it is just slightly worn it is no problem, just dress the rails and if possible close them a fraction.
Most important is the contact surface the tiestraps and rails have. It should be as large as possible.
