Bill's Husky 372

Dirt is what kills most saws .It doesn't do it as fast as a lean burn or straight gas but given enough time they will die .
 
I can't even count the times I get something in like a weed wacker ,blower ,saw with nothing more than a plugged air filter .Most saws though are so dull they'd cut about as good with the chain on backwards .What should be simple people just don't seem to grasp the concept of .

Those can be saved .The ones with the flocking sucked out of the filters,holes in the filters or no filters are pretty much toast .
 
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  • #30
Of course I forgot to consider that some people continue to run chainsaws long after they quit working properly. The plastic oiler drive gear is melted and stripped, so of course it won't work until this piece is replaced.

No luck with the carb either. I put the kit in it (the kits from Chainsawr suck, BTW. Only includes the diaphram and outer gaskets. Nothing else) and cleaned it out the best I could but it's not flowing fuel properly. I just got screamed at by a neighbor for making too much noise so I'm done for now.

As a side note I also swapped out the gas tank on my other 372 because I crushed the rear handle. I'm not real impressed with the aftermarket tank from Chainsawr. The gas cap leaks slightly and my original gas cap won't fit.

So i'm done playing saw mechanic for the day. I'll address it in a few days when I feel like it again.
 
The cheaper carb kits $5 are just that diaphragm kits only with gaskets, the rebuild kits have all the parts in them $10-$12 have the needle,screens,fulcrum,etc.
 
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  • #32
I put a known good carb on the saw from one of my saws. I also changed out the fuel line and pickup to the proper size (the fuel line was too small and somebody attempted to seal it with a glob of silicone). With a known good carb and fuel supply it was still racing until I sprayed shop lube on the clutch side crank seal. Running it for so long without a functional oiler cooked the crank seal.

I've never changed a crank seal. My saws usually die of old age before the seals leak. Al says they are easy though.
 
I'm not sure about a 372 because I've never worked on one .However some of the Husqvarnas had a square shoulder on the crankshaft where as Stihl has a tapered shoulder .On the square shoulder you have to use something like a thin plastic tube to get the seal over that square shoulder .Kind of a shoe spoon so to speak .

Usually Husky seals are inexpensive as opposed to Stihl which are all OEM .Some place I have a set of 181 seals I never got around to installing in one of Toms' saws .They were like 10 a pop .

From my perspective it's always best if you can find the OEM fuel lines .I've half assed them and made them work with tubing but they are never just right .They either leak or get stiff as a board and won't flop in the tank like they are intended to .

Lawdy I set my danged 2100 Huskey afire from such nonsense .What a hoot looking for something to put the fire out before I burned up the damned saw .Garden hose then the SOB wouldn't start for about a week after being drowned like a rat .It's always something .
 
Dang, a seal and another oiler part? Oh well I'll go with it. I have a question for those more into this though, if it has a bad seal, should I replace crank bearings and the top end? oh Brian, have you tried ahlborn equipment for parts?
 
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  • #36
The problem with a bad seal is figuring out why it went bad. I'm suspecting the rod bearings might be bad because the flywheel has scuff marks where it has been rubbing, and it wouldn't rub unless there was slop in the bearings. Bad bearings allowing the crank to run out of alignment will cause the seals to wallow out and leak. I can throw a new seal in it and it may run for a few weeks but that won't fix the bearings, and I'm not splitting the case to replace crank bearings on a worn out saw. The cost in time and parts far exceeds the value of the saw. I'm afraid this particular saw is done. :(

On the other hand there are lots of good parts on the saw. The piston looks very clean with no visible scuff marks, so I'm guessing the top end is in good shape. It has very good compression.
 
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  • #38
I'd rather help you find another good 372 case and see if we can put a saw together for you. You can hang on to it or I can throw it on the shelf until we can come up with something.

If anybody on the forum has a burned up or seized 372 with a good bottom end, post up.
 
Thanks, it was a great saw, and it brought down alot of big oaks.
 
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  • #40
For shits and giggles I pulled the muffler to get a better look at the top end. It looks pristine. According to the serial number it's a 2004 model. Has the rear handle/gas tank been replaced, or is it discolored from sitting in the sun?
 
A seal will probabley extend it's life for a moment .

A split is a chore if a person never did it ,which I fully understand .In this case probabley the best is find a good lower that someone cooked the top end .My advice at this point is stick in another seal and give it a go .The damned thing might last a long time before it gets to leaking again .Mmm if it's lateral movement only ,chances are are it could go a while .Up and down,not so good .
 
Skwerl said:
The problem with a bad seal is figuring out why it went bad. I'm suspecting the rod bearings might be bad because the flywheel has scuff marks where it has been rubbing, and it wouldn't rub unless there was slop in the bearings. Bad bearings allowing the crank to run out of alignment will cause the seals to wallow out and leak. I can throw a new seal in it and it may run for a few weeks but that won't fix the bearings, and I'm not splitting the case to replace crank bearings on a worn out saw. The cost in time and parts far exceeds the value of the saw. I'm afraid this particular saw is done. :(

On the other hand there are lots of good parts on the saw. The piston looks very clean with no visible scuff marks, so I'm guessing the top end is in good shape. It has very good compression.
Click to expand...

If the oil pump gear got hot, so has the seal.
It is easy to replace from outside. No need to split unless crank bearings, seal or crank is bad.

When you pull it you can see bearing.
 
Brian.
You need to know what you ask for when ordering online. Just kit is anybody's guess what it include.
I alway's ask if it doesn't say.

The saw look OK so I would do it right.

Check if there is play in main bearings. Out with seals and clean crank case, crank and bearings.
If that is OK, assemble it with new seals, good parts and new hoses etc...

Before you put carb in pull it apart and pressure test it. Set the main needle under pressure so you know it works.
It does not need much pressure, but constant.
 
As far as carb kits I personaly seldom buy the complete rebuild kit, just the diaphragm/gasket deal .Now weather it's blind luck I can't answer but with the exception of the infamous Zama on a 200T I've had exceptionaly good luck over the years .
 
I would do like the others are saying. See if the main bearing has any real slop up and down with crank movment. If not, put a seal in it and new oiler gear and try it out.
 
I ran a 372 today for the first time. I was very impressed. There must be somebody in Ohio that has an extra bottom end for one of those saws.:/: With the case tool, I would think nothing of popping a Husky apart and putting new bearings in. Unfortunately, I'm too far away, and shipping would kill the deal. The tank on the 372 I'm running looks just like that one.
 
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  • #48
What would be an accurate way to check for play in the crank? I'm not seeing any play by gently prying on the clutch drum with a prydriver against the case. But the thing that bothers me is the scuff marks on the flywheel indicating that it was rubbing on something. The only way it would get scuffed is if the bearings had slop, right? :?
 
I took the liberty of looking at the manual for a 372 .Husky might make a good product but their parts lists and manuals leave a lot to be desired as opposed to McCulloch and Stihl .

Never the less they showed a case splitter that would be real easy to make .It's just a C clamp with kind of a double end on it and a center turned screw .
 
Or if it got dropped while running... that'll do it, too.

Which neighbor blew you shit about the noise, Brian?

FWIW, a lot of my Huskies have the tank discolor like that after a few years.
 
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