335 xpt

[rskybiz]

Any one got a break down procedure for changing the oil pump. I know big PITA job but got to be done, yet I'm not looking forward to it

 

[woodworkingboy]

If that saw is along the same principles as it's predecessor, the 333 that was sold here, and it looks like it might be, you have to disassemble the entire saw and pull out the cylinder and crankcase assembly from the plastic case. Removing the carb, flywheel, clutch, and muffler, is required. The anti-vibe mounts have to be disconnected. You can shove the carb boot back through the case and leave it attached to the cylinder, or take it off at the cylinder. Once the assembly is free from the case, I seem to recall that you have to then separate the crank case from it's upper half, the cylinder (maybe not)....it's a single unit. The pump is there and is easy enough to work on at that point.

Taking out every bolt you can find will get you going.

 

[woodworkingboy]

First have a look at the worm gear under the clutch, make sure it isn't damaged. That would be a simple fix. Does the pump gear move? There is a spring in there that can break. After taking off the clutch and worm gear, you can see the pump but can't work on it, a frustrating deal.

Hopefully they have made the saw easier to work on?

 

[rskybiz]

Still have yet to eat dinner so in the am or later I will check under clutch, sprocket was changed almost two months ago so that could be a possibility. Thinking if I have to pull it all apart, I may just break down, I got it used in 05 so it just may be time.

 

[sawinredneck]

I'd make sure everything was clean, clean and cleaner first! Make sure the oil holes in the bar aren't plugged, the bar rails are clear, check where the bar mounts to the saw, is that all clean?
Maybe even clean out the oil tank and run some diesel or kerosene through the oiler system and see if it cleans out some gunk before tearing the saw down.
Try the simple things first!

 

[rskybiz]

Hear that! I like the simpler options I'll update in the am!

 

[Al Smith]

You have to literally field strip that little rascal to get to the pump . The pump housing itself is part of the side plate .

 

[Al Smith]

Aha , picture

 

[rskybiz]

Now I see so any idea what the cost is on replacement parts?
Thanks for the pic Al

 

[Al Smith]

I think the pump shaft is around 7 bucks and maybe 5 for the drive gear . Again as I said previously maybe two years ago ,I have no idea what goes wrong with them but a new shaft gets it .

You might try running some kerosine through it first as it will save you several hours of tear down and reassembley it that fixes it .BTW this is the weak link on this otherwise pretty good little saw ,all things considered that is .

 

[rskybiz]

Been real good saw to me even with the carb boot getting cracks/leaks. It came unhooked once and fell on a stone wall from about thirty ft, I thought that was its end all but it faired well. cracked the recoil case and bent the bar. Again many thanks for the info, I'll post up the outcome after some putzing in tha am.
Btw any line on a recoil for a homlite 360 automatic? Or just the spring and rope wind part (cog)?

 

[SkwerI]

There's a used parts dealer who is a sponsor over at Forestry Forum and everybody has good things to say about him. He's located out in the PNWet I think.
http://store.chainsawr.com/

 

[rskybiz]

Thanks Brian just the ticket

 

[woodworkingboy]

Yep, that is the same set-up as on the Asian distributed 333. The early models were really susceptible to the pump malfunctioning, I would have thought that they took care of that. There is also a spring and some small washers that go on the shaft, good to replace those as well. I've repaired two, one was the shaft, and another was the spring that goes around it. Be careful not to forget your hose connections when doing the assembly if you do decide to fix it, otherwise you'll be taking it all apart again....no fun. I have a schematic I can scan for you if you need it. All the parts are sold separately.

 

[rskybiz]

At this point I can use the scan, this mornings attempts were a no go I cleaned and cleaned tried the kero, pulled the clutch, the gear seems fine.
While I go through the trouble pulling it all apart would any of you recomend any mods?

 

[woodworkingboy]

While you have the pump exposed, try giving it a kerosene bath around the spring area and blowing it out. Maybe there is some crud in there that can get removed. Are you seeing any oil coming out around the base of the saw, leaving some when you set it down? The oil hose may have just come off it's connection that leads to the oil exit at the bar hole. The oil would still be pumping, but not to where you want it and dripping out through the bottom of the saw. You have to take it apart to get to that too. That seems like a real possibility if the gear is good and the pump shaft moves. You also have the hose from the oil tank to the pump. With the bar removed, no oil is coming out at all?

According to my readings, you aren't supposed to be able to mod those saws, but I opened the exhaust port a bit and found some slight gains. Be careful not to leave yourself an open port situation if you get to enlarging it. I'm not sure it is worth it, might make for less mix in the combustion chamber and harder starting. Mine has that a bit now, if not a carb thing.

I can get your parts scan up, hopefully tomorrow.

 

[Al Smith]

Because it's a clam shell they really isn't much you can do with it as far as mods . Maybe some improvements could be done on the bottom exit exhaust .

I have three but as of yet I've not taken the time to try anything to enhance them .Too many irons in the fire so to speak .

 

[Al Smith]

Idea ! I have no clue if this would work as it just came to me out of the blue .

If you could snag enough of the oil pick up hose to get a pump oil can on it it might be possible to kind of force feed some kerosine though the pump to flush it out if it's plugged with something . If that works it will save you several hours of frustration .

 

[rskybiz]

As its pouring out I am headed to the shop to start the complete process, right after I put the tiller back together for the bench space!

 

[Al Smith]

Well rain in Florida but snow here in the frozen north country .Territorial thing ,precipitation .

 

[SkwerI]

Thanks for sending the rain this way, Joel. :what:

 

[rskybiz]

Fixed this afternoon, via kero and some air pressure pumped into the tank via a valve stem in a old gas cap. Now I hope I got all the crud out so it don't happen again Thanks for the input all!

 

[rskybiz]

Thanks for sending the rain this way, Joel. :what:

What, it isnt like we did'nt need it it was over here by ten now just windy and the cold blow'n in 42 @8pm

 

[Al Smith]

Glad that hillbilly fix worked .That's a lot better than peeling that little rascal down to the bones just to fix the danged pump .

Now on the other hand you missed a great chance to test your patience working on micro saws .If you can keep your cool working on those little bastages you can work on anything .

 

[woodworkingboy]

Neat trick pumping the kerosene through. I'm assuming that you don't need the scan now, saves me the trouble, though I did try and clean the grease smudges off the page today. There are only four parts to the oil pump, excluding the worm gear and the oil flow adjuster parts for minimum to maximum, consisting of the shaft, a spring and two washers.