Pointers on Big Tree Felling

Bodean

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Hey All.

We have a project going on w some fat albizzias…. We’re gonna be dumping some pumpkins… right now we are removing back weight to favor the drops.

We have a couple 88’s one of them has a four foot bar never used one. Floppy and throws the chain w deflection…. Definitely gonna have to double cut these.

Any pointers, tips or tricks would be appreciated. Thank you



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SeanKroll

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A pilot kerf with a smaller bar will help.

I like full gap faces with snipes for big double-cuts. Plunging into the face-cut from the front toward the back allows you to put wedges into that kerf and blow off one side of the face-cut. With one side out, its easier to get the second half aligned.

If there is heart rot, it will help.
 

Bodean

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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
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Thank you. Keep em coming…. I’ve cut a few 4 and 5 foot trees but these are like 8 and 10 footers…
with included stems.
 

SeanKroll

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Thank you. Keep em coming…. I’ve cut a few 4 and 5 foot trees but these are like 8 and 10 footers…
with included stems.
You will be able to gut the middle of the hinge with a long bar from the front. Corners matter.

How tight is the layout?
 

Burnham

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Took a while, but located this post of mine...

A method for cutting faces in stems bigger than your bar length.

 
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lxskllr

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Drive a stake where you want the tree to lay. Hook your tape off to the stake, pull to the side of the tree where the front of your hinge will be. Mark it and note the distance. Go to the other side of the tree, pull the same distance and mark it. Cut from mark to mark, and it'll point to where you drove the stake.
 

WoodCutr

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Drive a stake where you want the tree to lay. Hook your tape off to the stake, pull to the side of the tree where the front of your hinge will be. Mark it and note the distance. Go to the other side of the tree, pull the same distance and mark it. Cut from mark to mark, and it'll point to where you drove the stake.
ok, ive heard of that one but never used it
I might just have to print that one off to keep in the work truck when I need to drop something in a tight spot, thanks for the tip
 

SeanKroll

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Using your gunning sight on a 'target' as far away as possible is more accurate.

When double-cutting an 8' tree, you should be sighting in on two 'target' points, 9' apart (about 6" from the trunk to the gunning sight on each side).

If you use one point, the hinge will be deeper in the center of the tree, not straight. The closer the object that you're using for your 'target' of the gunning sight, the worse this will be.
 

friedrich

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Using your gunning sight on a 'target' as far away as possible is more accurate.

When double-cutting an 8' tree, you should be sighting in on two 'target' points, 9' apart (about 6" from the trunk to the gunning sight on each side).

If you use one point, the hinge will be deeper in the center of the tree, not straight. The closer the object that you're using for your 'target' of the gunning sight, the worse this will be.
marking your corners and cutting with your gunning sights on the saw are two different animals, to my understanding. closely related but different. parallaxic error happens when you use only one point while gunning. cant really happen when marking your corners.

using your tape instead of gunning sticks is improvising but the same idea/method.
 

Burnham

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Maybe a little help here...

 

greengreer

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That's a biggun for sure. Curious as to why the man basket on the crane rather than traditional crane picks.
I don't have huge trees here but I've had pretty good accuracy with the sights when double cutting in what we call big (4-6' dia). It helps to line up each side of the trunk individually on really tight shots, taking into account the width of the trunk, especially when you're aim point is nearer than further. Chop out that face early and don't be afraid to gut the heart if the lean is fair or favorable. Probably all been said before.
Enjoy Hawaii, just got back from Australia and I'm missing the summer weather.
 
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