Log debarking

[Page]

Anyone have experience with debarking logs? I’ve been trying to research a bit and surprised how many people say that the draw knife is the best. I would figure the grinder or chainsaw attachments would be good but a lot of folks say their more trouble than their worth. Pressure washer seems to get good reviews but I imagine you’d be using a ton of water. What do you guys think? ( I’m tired of changing blades on the mill so often )

 

[lxskllr]

Have you tried anything yet? It isn't something I've done a lot of, but a sharp axe works well on some logs. Get a good seam started, then shave it off in sheets. Probably depends a good bit on species/length of time after being cut for how well it works.

 

[Altissimus]

The Spruce and Pine cabin builders here will often use the chainsaw planer like attachments , noisy and time consuming with meh results ... the old schoolers do a much a better job with a spud , hammer , and draw knife ... they say Spring is the best time for this

 

[Raj]

That's a tough one. Are the logs for live edge or lumber? I don't think there is a one size fits all answer.

 

[SeanKroll]

A bark spud, especially in spring, and when green, seems to help some people.

 

[stikine]

@stig posted an interesting chainsaw attachment in the work thread a couple of weeks ago. A beefed up version of a Log Wizard. I think just debarking where your opening cuts are would be sufficient.

 

[lumberjack]

How many bdft are you getting on a sharpen?

Using a draw knife to debark sounds like a lot of work to save a little money.

With you having a manual mill, it may not be that hard to rig up an inline debarker like Woodmizer (~3/16-1/4" carbide blade that clears the kerf). My first thought is a 4.5" grinder with an undersized wheel to reduce the speed of the cutting tips to promote longevity.

 

[SeanKroll]

King Arthur woodworking tools might be an option. With some creative fabrication.

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[Treeaddict]

I’ve used a draw knife and a sharp axe. Not caring too much about speedily production.

Is this just for the kerf width to make the blade last longer?

Most mills have debarked attachments. They are pricey (ish) though from what I’ve seen

 

[flushcut]

Get a bark tracer for your mill. It’s a small circular saw attachment that scores the bark ahead of the bandsaw blade.

 

[Mesquite]

What type of wood are you trying to debark?

My uncle told me the easy time to take the bark of is when it's still wet. But spacificlly he was talking about cedar logs.

 

[Dave Shepard]

I learned to saw on a manual Wood-Mizer with no debarker. I spent a lot of time with the Log Wizard. You really only need to worry about the entrance side of the log. If the logs are clean, I wouldn't worry. Pressure washing the mud off, or even blowing the bark off is an option, but time consuming and messy. I have a long handled scraper that I use as a spud if the bark is coming off in big pieces.

 

[Page]

How many bdft are you getting on a sharpen?

Using a draw knife to debark sounds like a lot of work to save a little money.

With you having a manual mill, it may not be that hard to rig up an inline debarker like Woodmizer (~3/16-1/4" carbide blade that clears the kerf). My first thought is a 4.5" grinder with an undersized wheel to reduce the speed of the cutting tips to promote longevity.

Not getting many board feet at first. I’d get through 2 logs and the cuts would get progressively worse. A lot of my logs have been drug through the mud. I try to clean them off good but I think for the dimensional lumber I may as well debark it.

 

[Page]

What type of wood are you trying to debark?

My uncle told me the easy time to take the bark of is when it's still wet. But spacificlly he was talking about cedar logs.

All types

 

[Dave Shepard]

If you saw old locust, it is self debarking.

 

[Raj]

If you saw old locust, it is self debarking.
View attachment 119601

And smells great!