Cannon Bars

[stig]

I completely agree with willard, the radius reduced bar tips are way better for boring.
If you are a pro, that is.
Because they are also way better for causing kickback, which is why they went out of favour.

But us pros sure like them

 

[Jed]

Thanks Jay. Might be worth a go.

 

[HolmenTree]

I completely agree with willard, the radius reduced bar tips are way better for boring.
If you are a pro, that is.
Because they are also way better for causing kickback, which is why they went out of favour.

But us pros sure like them

Sorry to have to tell you Stig that you are wrong. Radius reduced bar tips or mini tips greatly reduce kickback not cause more kickback.

The smaller the area in the upper quaderent or kickback zone of the bar tip , the less kickback energy is produced. The larger the area or tip surface the greater the kickback energy is produced.

That is why the mini tips bore so well, they can be pushed straight into the tree like a sword at WOT and they enter the wood very smoothly.

 

[HolmenTree]

My logic is that there would be greater resistance/drag on the chain with the tighter radius, resulting in a loss of speed, but it probably doesn't count.

Jay I think you are thinking of those Japanese solid tip bars. A mini tip with a sprocket and bearings have no extra resistence or drag.

 

[squisher]

Sorry to have to tell you Stig that you are wrong. Radius reduced bar tips or mini tips greatly reduce kickback not cause more kickback.

The smaller the area in the upper quaderent or kickback zone of the bar tip , the less kickback energy is produced. The larger the area or tip surface the greater the kickback energy is produced.

That is why the mini tips bore so well, they can be pushed straight into the tree like a sword at WOT and they enter the wood very smoothly.

So what you're saying is Stig is running beginner bars. Tsk, tsk.

Lol.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I was thinking the physics was off on that...

 

[woodworkingboy]

Correct, Willard, I have never seen a small radius bar with a sprocket in the end. Sounds very interesting.

 

[Al Smith]

I've got a skinny nose bar with a bearing that I've never used .Came off some small Stihl .It's a 42 thou groove and I don't have a chain for it but it bolts up to a 200T .

 

[woodworkingboy]

I'm liking this new Oregon chain for smaller saws. 3/8" low profile, .050" gauge. The cutters are a third longer and the steel seems better than typical Oregon. Aggressive cutting.

https://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+91VXL025U&catID=

 

[squisher]

So I've been running a Cannon bar on my 460 for a bit now, this thread and the fact that they're made local to my province made me decide to give them another shot. So far a high quality bar with no issues.

 

[stig]

They are high quality, all right.
Just too expensive for my taste.

 

[squisher]

$120 here for a 24".

 

[wiley_p]

$120 here for a 24".

Come visit. Thats about what I pay for a 32". The glitch they had was short lived and got dealt with.. Except for the Stihl lightweight bars, Cannon is all that is.

 

[squisher]

Then I'd have to explain the bars as I crossed the line, but it'd still probably be worth it. Crazy you can get bars made in BC cheaper than I can. My dealer sucks for deals. The list on a 24" up here is $150.

 

[Al Smith]

They are high dollar bars .However they can or will make just about any sized bar in just about any mount pattern you can think of .Fact they can still supply an open roller racing type bar if you pony up enough money .

 

[squisher]

My two 24" bars that are running steady production are still doing fine. Not much wear at all, cutting real true.