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Yeah that would drive me nuts, but well done.

If you notice when you flip the lever the dies either open or close. Adjust to size if it's not there. Fill the thing with cutting oil, when the die is down it should rain on the pipe, completely covering the thread cutting, you need a ton of oil. Cut your threads, go one thread past the end of...

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That sucks man.

Any pics? Maybe chisel off the insulation and see what you got? Get some more plate and replace whole sides?

6010, 6011. Use it, learn it, watch yourself succeed. 7018 for high strength stuff, after the cellulose rods it'll be child's play, still use them for the first pass tho. I would only use 6013 if the apocalypse happened and i had already used all the other rods on earth :lol: It does work fine...

Thus far, that's the nice thing about welding, just grind it off and do it again.

It can't be repaired?

Good deal, thx sir, that makes me feel better about it all. I was wondering on that since most hitches don't have any cross bracing or side to side stiffening at all, and even change elevation so there's even more of a twisting load on the single side plates. With that in mind i will likely will...

@Burnham was it the hitch on the truck that broke or the winch mounting part? I'm not doubting you I'm just trying to understand the failure mode because I've used a hitch mounting for both my chipper crane and log trailer crane, and if it's a crap design i need to fix that. The chipper crane is...

Or just build one from pipe or channel, you build stuff more complicated than that Dave, I've seen it! I would consider adding a receiver tube to it, and then have a winch mounted on a hitch so you could pull it when you wanted. Then you can also move trailers around super easy too. Or...

I would get Lincoln or esab rods, i hadn't even considered the fact that other brands of rod even existed :lol: They showed up with some junk brand 7018 at work once, i tried some messing around welding hangers one day and could barely get it to work at all. You can get by just fine with a...

Both the straight and the little 90' die grinders are handy, i even have a cheap harbor freight electric straight one i use on the welding rig, handy for cleaning up torched holes sometimes. The carbide bits are not cheap, and you gotta make sure they don't pull out because it's like a bullet...

You gotta remember welding is only a small portion of the trade, i happen to do a bunch of it but that's a small fraction of the work. I basically really got into rigging too, and before long you start branching out into how other trades rig stuff and then i found tree work. When you are doing...

Yeah 7018 is a bit different, it has a heavy slag. When you first strike up you really need to warm the rod up a bit before you start welding, otherwise you'll get porosity on your starts, so strike up ahead of where you need to go then go back to the start. When you break arc the slag will...

Don't do the water part then!

Good trick there is shove some stuff in there too act as a heat shield. Piece of plywood, maybe even some sheet metal and you'll be amazed at how close you can weld to stuff. Good way to protect hoses, wires, and stuff you don't want to get hot. Weld blankets or old weld jackets work great too...

Yup, they love to find ears too, hence the goofy hats, which are also used for dust and rust

If you can cut a bigger hole you can weld the nut to a washer or piece of plate, hold or bolt it in place, and then weld flat looking down around the inside of the hole. The size of the hole depends on how you're gonna weld it and how thick it is. Use a torch to blacken the threads if you are...

Another good trick where you need threads but threading isn't ideal is to weld a nut on the back of the plate. Good call not wanting to weld on the oil tank, simply having hydrocarbons in it can lead to a fire or explosion just like an oil drum, it's obviously done but it requires tools and...