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one that has the 2 adjustments on the neck of the unit, so you can set up proper angles when using it. Those with just one adjustable angle on the neck/ where the unit pivots down towards the chain, are no good. Get a stone dressing file as well, as you need to keep the radius clean over time...

1/4 chain is so small, and the cutters so short and small, you dont get much life from them sadly, add to that the joy of bumpers on the chain, and its a royal pain in the butt, I prefer my 3/8p on older pole saws to the newer 1/4 chain, fine when its new, but it just dosent last.

I really like how a well worn chain cuts, the narrow kerf seems to speed it up, its a dissapointment when I put on a new chain, as its slower, and look forward to putting a file to it after a few tanks, or when needed to get it to suit what im cutting better. if its J cutting, the chain will...

Lots of factors on a chain that contribute to it cutting well, or it not cutting at all, along with when to keep it and when to toss it, or replace damaged drive links, cutters or tie straps, some are worth repairing, others not so much. chain new from the factory is a compromise to sort of cut...

yes, I call it a progressive raker guide, as the tooth wears back, the amount taken off the raker progressivly increases past the inital amount most non progressive guides allow. ie using a husky roller guide with progressive raker guide for example on a stihl semi chisel chain. and the...

yes, and its hell on the power head, have seen cranks snap at the clutch due to that.