Search results for query: *

I use a plumb bob on difficult to read trees. Then I look at the canopy, two limbs going this way six going that way and what not. More limbs under the lean than ahead of the lean is bad ju ju for a good outcome in a tree of that mass. I’d cut the limbs off under the lean first.

Perfect Christmas card photo!

I agree that when they're is a ton of backweight wedges are hard pressed. I don't know the amount of backweight, naturally. How do you read the weight distribution? People often choke one leg of a rope with a knot rather than s tensionless hitch, then tie or wrap a bollard with the...

You'll want a tapered end if you try.

I’ve used several braids, etc with it, but found 1/2” Treemaster to be the best. I’ve tried a couple of other 1/2” 3-strands, but Treemaster is firmer/harder than the others and works the best. I don’t know that the Maasdam is built anywhere near strong enough to make use of the strength of 5/8”...

8 feet of leverage vs. 80 feet of tree. Big mismatch.

If the tree is reasonably balanced wedges alone will work. But if the trunk is back leaning and there 20”-30” limbs 60’ long under the lean you ain’t wedging nothing. Especially in a five foot DBH oak, many many tons going the wrong way. Pull, jack, and wedges are in order, stack the deck in...

I can’t see 5/8” fitting. It’s sometimes finicky getting 1/2” thru.

I don’t use it often, only clean and green since it dulls easily. I don’t remember having to tension much. I used it on a several tree project a while back. Lots of experimenting with hinging.

I haven’t been brave or dumb enough to try it on a real tree yet. I’d be inclined to stick two wedges just barely in the front to keep the kerf open and give a smidge of direction.

I remember being all careful cutting a highly valuable black walnut tree just to have it split in 3rds upon impact.

How often do you tighten up the slack?

Just curious what your experiences are. What kind of 5/8" rope did you try, and did it fit? did it slip a lot or a little?

It’s kind of an unspoken method in the Midwest from what I understand. It’s sketchy, not for newbs, and subject to criticism.

There was a vid of a guy doing the same with a walnut a few years back, worked well with the sharpest of sharp saws, a fairly neutral tree lean wise and a clear exit. By all accounts it’s not uncommon on the highest value timber. Nevertheless I bet they pick and chose carefully what trees they...

On that tree I’d have done a Humboldt, bore and trigger. A poor example I did just for grins for my buddy back east who always harvests valuable timber that way. Of interest is that the low side back cut pulled out of the butt and the high side pulled out of the stump. Did I already post...

Ironically a 2ft fibre pull right in the middle of the log.

I cannot imagine under any circumstance choosing that method.

I run 24” 3/8” lp on ported 60cc It’s “baby skip”