SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
Has that cut been referred to as the Golden Triangle cut, or something similar?
Not a Coos bay cut.
- Thread starter Thor's Hammer
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Al Smith
Mac Daddy
It's a Danish thing like a breakfast roll .
i like this cut on small trees that can't be bored out but like Stig said it works well on storm damaged stuff too. ive always called this cut the double vee as there are two sinks placed in the front.important note is to make sure that the cuts bypass one another and that the point of the cut falls within the circumference of the stump. angle of the cuts shouldnt be less than 60 degrees to avoid the tree falling sideways early but in saying that you will not have massive amounts of directional control as the hinge wood will be triangulated. splitting is reduced due to a shearing/crushing effect of the fibres.
im sure Dent shows a similar variant but with the triangulated hinge reversed.
im sure Dent shows a similar variant but with the triangulated hinge reversed.
SkwerI
Treehouser
Why bother cutting out the faces instead of just making two kerf cuts? If the tree isn't going to hinge to the face then there isn't really any purpose in making the face IMO.
As you are potentially trying to stop the tree splitting, single kerf only cuts are going to pressurise the back of the tree to an even greater degree. You can still direct the tree to some degree but you are only going to do this cut on forward weighted trees so direction is somewhat chosen already.
Burnham
Woods walker
I'm not sure I buy your analysis re the "pressurise the back of the tree to an even greater degree", my friend. Please amplify, if you would.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
In my simple way of thinking I would think a small face would be better than just a little single kerf on the fall side .It would seem to me the tree folding over on a little face would be better than having two round objects coming together and throwing the lay sideways .
Now then let me get this straight because I'm having a hard time visulizing this .Evidently it has a face .The back cut is two bisecting beaver cuts and finished off straight through the back back clip ????
Now then let me get this straight because I'm having a hard time visulizing this .Evidently it has a face .The back cut is two bisecting beaver cuts and finished off straight through the back back clip ????
Peter
Treehouser
As I understand it...
The two bisecting beaver cuts are the face. The tree falls in line with the apex of the triangle formed by the two faces.
As you make the back cut, the length of the hinge becomes shorter and shorter as you cut, thus allowing the cutter to chase the hinge while reducing the risk of barberchairing.
(BTW, I love the term, bisecting beavers, where else would you hear that?!)
The two bisecting beaver cuts are the face. The tree falls in line with the apex of the triangle formed by the two faces.
As you make the back cut, the length of the hinge becomes shorter and shorter as you cut, thus allowing the cutter to chase the hinge while reducing the risk of barberchairing.
(BTW, I love the term, bisecting beavers, where else would you hear that?!)
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Ha! I don't know if it really is a beaver or not but it's just what we call it in this neck of the woods . It's something you kind of do if you're like Stig and try to whittle down a 36" tree with a 14" bar .Works !
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
How about that bisecting beaver cut...
But people are speaking about this like its got some directional control.
Doesn't seem like it would.
Clarification, please.
No directional control!
On trees that have less lean or belong to non-split prone species, I'll do like Brian suggested and just make two bisecting cuts.
That is tha same way I release blowdown log from the rootball.
As I see it, opening the faces gives the fibers in the apex ( front) ot the triangle a chance to compress as the tree starts falling, thus helping counteract the barberchair.
Another good thing by using two face cuts is that it allows the not so experienced sawyer to see exectly how much and where he/she has cut away.
Like in this case. If Martin had only used bisecting cuts and had to bisect them by feel, he would have screwed it up,using a double face gives you a chance to inspect and chance it before tripping the tree.
On trees that have less lean or belong to non-split prone species, I'll do like Brian suggested and just make two bisecting cuts.
That is tha same way I release blowdown log from the rootball.
As I see it, opening the faces gives the fibers in the apex ( front) ot the triangle a chance to compress as the tree starts falling, thus helping counteract the barberchair.
Another good thing by using two face cuts is that it allows the not so experienced sawyer to see exectly how much and where he/she has cut away.
Like in this case. If Martin had only used bisecting cuts and had to bisect them by feel, he would have screwed it up,using a double face gives you a chance to inspect and chance it before tripping the tree.
Peter
Treehouser
Perhaps I should have said make the cuts so that the apex of the triangle points towards the tree's natural lay.
Like the coos bay, its for when controlling the direction isnt going to happen, the tree is only ever going to go one way.
Like the coos bay, its for when controlling the direction isnt going to happen, the tree is only ever going to go one way.
Thor's Hammer
Wolfish. Sometimes Bites.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
I have always found that the double face gives me a certain amount of directional control. On the pics at the start of this thread, it allowed me to swing the poplar a good 10 foot around the stems of two other trees.
Burnham
Woods walker
Do tell, Ed...actually swung, or was it just that you aimed the triagle point a bit off of the headlean?
Thor's Hammer
Wolfish. Sometimes Bites.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #41
Point the triangle Burnham, it won't swing, but you can direct the fall somewhat.
Burnham
Woods walker
Gotcha, Ed. Next time, don't say you swung it if you don't mean you swung it...then I'll be better able to follow the discourse 
.
.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Pshaw I can't follow it at all myself .
S
SydTreeguy
Guest
Never seen a cut quite like that before... the first time I looked it it I thought the apex would be pointing in the opposite direction to the natural lay. Seems like there would be some potential for the tree to flop over in the direction of the left or right 'hinge'. Any reason why you couldn't cut at least a small hinge at the face instead of having the apex of the triangle there? Might give you a little control over the direction of fall. I've only used the coos bay 3 times, but each time I did put a small hinge in it.
One advantage of the golden triangle is that you don't need to match your cuts up like on a coos.
Shaun
One advantage of the golden triangle is that you don't need to match your cuts up like on a coos.
Shaun
One thing 30+ years of working as a professional treefaller has taught me is not to go against the will of god ( any god, choose whichever one you fancy).
If god has pushed a tree ½ way over in one direction, how could I, mere mortal being, attempt to try making it go another way.
Mostly when I deal with trees like that, it is the few semi standing remnants of a stand blown over by storm.
In which case direction falling is moot.
If I want to fall something like that and aim the fall, I'll turn to other methods.
Most often, though, I grab for the "Golden triangle" when those other methods will be too dangerous.
If god has pushed a tree ½ way over in one direction, how could I, mere mortal being, attempt to try making it go another way.
Mostly when I deal with trees like that, it is the few semi standing remnants of a stand blown over by storm.
In which case direction falling is moot.
If I want to fall something like that and aim the fall, I'll turn to other methods.
Most often, though, I grab for the "Golden triangle" when those other methods will be too dangerous.
Burnham, what i thought Brian was referring too is that he would put no more than a single cut in the front of the tree. If this was done then as the tree closes on this the trees fall would be stalled and generate pressure towards the greater tensioned part of the tree in this case being the back. You have to remember this cut is shown over here on smaller stems with forward weight that you would be unable to bore out before tripping. Due to this small size and lean even trying to form an appropriate sized face cut on a compression side is difficult so placing two faces some what helps as they are placed in from the sides.
Sydtreeguy there is a hinge in the tree even if its triangulated it will control a little but depends on species.
An old tutor of mine showed me a great demo of this cut years ago on a root lifted tree.He placed the cuts in and proceeded with the back cut until there was movement in the tree. He then sat down and told me to watch the tree which just slowly inched its way forward. All he kept saying to me was that the tree thinks of splitting but follows the easier path of the triangulated hinge. As with all good demo's it looked deceptively easy and his cuts were spot on!
Sydtreeguy there is a hinge in the tree even if its triangulated it will control a little but depends on species.
An old tutor of mine showed me a great demo of this cut years ago on a root lifted tree.He placed the cuts in and proceeded with the back cut until there was movement in the tree. He then sat down and told me to watch the tree which just slowly inched its way forward. All he kept saying to me was that the tree thinks of splitting but follows the easier path of the triangulated hinge. As with all good demo's it looked deceptively easy and his cuts were spot on!
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
What do you call the high you get from acquiring a new piece knowledge on a subject you are interested in?
