Dump trailer help

[emr]

What is this? And could it be causing my new dump trailer to not hold a charge?



I will have more questions to come on this subject......


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[sawinredneck]

Looks like a 20 amp circuit breaker, like a fuse, but resets itself. Lose a charge? No, not get charged, certainly! Check it with an ohm meter and see if it has continuity through both spades, if not, most auto parts stores carry them.

 

[emr]

Someone told me it was for a trickle charger that is on the trailer someplace. Does that make sense?

We can charge the battery but it never lasts too long. We bought a solar powered charger and it makes very little difference from what I can tell.

For those of you who have dump trailers, what do you do? Keep your battery on a charger or just put it on when you will be using it? Or does it just keep itself charged some how?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[sawinredneck]

Never seen a trickle charger on one, that should be going to the trailer plug and get power from the tow vehicle to help keep the battery charged when in tow and in use.
A trickle charger is fine if you don't use it daily, if you do you'll want a larger charger to keep the battery up to par.

 

[sawinredneck]

Here's some help, more questions and answers at the bottom of the page, http://www.etrailer.com/question-44005.html

 

[1BUS]

My dump trailer has an on board charger set up, you just plug an extension cord in the outlet on the trailer, similar to a boat.

 

[emr]

I was on etrailer looking earlier today. It helped some but you guys always seem to get me straightened out.

One other thing.... I put a new trailer hookup on. It came with the 7 but all of our trucks have 6 round and none have 7. He one wire that I didn't hook up was labeled as "charge". I assume that is why it's not charging off the tow vehicle.

Do you think I could connect that "charge" wire to a different wire and make it work?

Another problem is that we don't have power where we store our equipment. So any solution has to be solar or to power it off of the tow vehicle.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[sotc]

Truck has to be wired as well. You could do it that way or jump into this century and run the round 7 rv plug that everything has changed to.

 

[Husabud]

A short term solution would be to tie that wire into the tail lights wire (usually brown). You'll just have to drive with those lights on to charge. I suggest moving up to the 7pin.

 

[emr]

We just bought a brand new Vermeer chipper and it came with the 6 round. This dump trailer is the first thing that I have ever used that came with the 7.

Regardless, it's going to remain a 6 so that we can pull it with either pickup or our chip truck.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Al Smith]

You just have to figure out what is what and either rewire it or use some type of "jumper" such as a six pin on the truck to a 7 on the trailer.Usually on a 7 pin the center is either ground or a perminate hot wire used for aux. stuff .

I can't remember for certain but you could probabley "Google " it .

 

[rskybiz]

I ran a feed and ground from my dump on the truck to the rear and put a quick connect that I can run my winch from as well as plug the dump trailer to also.
Switching to 7 pin all around would solve all your woes though.

 

[squisher]

You could just add a seven. You don't have to get rid of the six. Have both.

 

[Evan Sussman]

6 pin has a charge wire (technically aux so it could be whatever you fancy).

Get some 12 gauge wire, 20amp fuse, zip ties, and some wire connectors(one that fits on your battery bolt). Run it from battery + to the plug on the bumper. Tuck it inside the frame, and out of the way, and moving parts. Give slack where necessary for frame/engine movement. Keep away from exhaust. Use e-trailers wiring diagrams for the pin out. You may end up realizing that both your truck and existing trailers wiring isn't standard. Mine wasn't.

Tapping into a taillight wire is a recipe for a blown fuse.

One other thing, you may want to tap into an ignition switched battery + or use a relay so that you don't drain your battery if the trailer has issues. (a relay allows you to switch a large load by applying a small load to the other side of the relay. That way the small load doesn't blow your existing ignition switched circuit, but the trailer charge wire only runs when the ignition is on.)

7 pin adds reverse light.

Let me know if I can help more. I don't think it's a bad idea to have the 7 flat rv plug too, since it is becoming common. It sounds like you still are going to have to run a power wire though. Oh, when you put the wires into the itty bitty terminals in the connector, make sure no strands are astray. I had a pulsing brake issue when I didn't notice my turn signal had one strand out of the terminal and touching the brake terminal.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Great post there, Evan!

 

[sawinredneck]

To add to Evan's post, put either a fuse or circuit breaker inline, close to the battery, so if you do have a problem with the wire shorting you you don't burn your truck up!
But I agree, the 7-pin is the new standard and it's not hard, or that expensive, to buy an adapter to go from 7-pin, to 6-pin or even 4-pin flat.