Climber Set Speedline

Jack

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Sep 23, 2010
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Looking for some speedline advice from the experts -

BACKGROUND: recently did a large Eastern White Pine removal - no drop zone below - speedline worked great {a personal favorite} ... BUT -
resetting speedline for each whorl = remove slings + release anchor + set speedline at next whorl + re-tention line + reset anchor = climber + groundie

Groundie does most of the speedline setting while climber waits ... Seems inefficient IMO.

So ... if the anchor could stay fixed and the climber moves the tie-point and re-tensions, the groundie could be freed up to deal with the branches & slings.

Thought I try a few ideas:

Climber Set Speedline: Concept #1 - based upon a Mini-POW {vid below}
This is the first of a planned series videos to test various concepts for positioning, tensioning & securing a speedline by the climber, while in the tree, without the need to interrupt ground support activity.

Coming soon ... ?
Climber Set Speedline: Concept #2 - based upon a sling & friction hitch
Then, maybe ... ?
Climber Set Speedline: Concept #3 - with a rope grab
Maybe use the Rope Jack to tension ?

I'm hoping for recommendations of other concepts to test and video - 'or-a-fo-get-a-bout-it' :)

<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WrieVyXX1Os" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Im glad you posted this. So many times it's so easy to make things more difficult than they need to be. Your vid reminded of some thing I will use on the job tomorrow.
I have used the figure 8 in the pic the same way you made use of the porty.
 

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Nice video editing! How was your groundie taking up tension on the line? I have a steel biner on the end of my speed line and just girth it around tree. On small branches we take up slack a couple of different ways depending on how big the pieces are. Half the time around a tree or over the rack on my truck is enough. I do not like the idea of the climber taking up the tension. Climbing up a tree with a rope on you that is tied off on the ground is a drag.
 
Great video Jack... Man you have clean and shiny gear :D
I have done as you describe in the video. Only with say a HO that is just aiding me on a few items. When Rob and I speed line with the Z rig, it is much more efficient. Once the brush sets are lined out, he just slackens the line at the Z rig and I get the next set ready. By the time I am ready with the next set, he usually has everything off the line and also dragged out. I rarely have to wait on him. I hollar, "line set... tension", and then he is ready. Only thing that slows his end down is multiple large sets. 4, 20 foot limbs and it takes him a minute. Might have to add a drink of water to my next set up :D
 
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  • #6
Thanks. The POW & saddle are brand new (my first non-4D, LOL). But, I'm fairly fussy about my gear. Anyway, most of the time I'm working with an HO, so I minimize their rigging chores. That's what started all this. On a white pine, I can run 10-20 slings down before I need to re-set.

I'm liking the 8, Jeff ... I'd forgotten all about that ... gotta get the one you show. BTW, like the new avatar - lot less scary than the last one. :D

Right you are, Darin, I usually don't climb any distance with a rope or saw or other gear ... get to height and haul up stuff with the tail of my climb line - you can just barely see that in the time-lapse bit.
 
Jack
Excellent video!!!=D> I have run into the same thought to.I do basically the samething but instead on the pow being in the tree with me i do a base ty and then for where I'm working I use a pulley and a loopie. I found this works well for me also, and it's pretty qiuck to reset. But will keep this in mind for when working just with a homeowner. Again excellent vid and keep more of your idea's coming.

Ben
 
Jack, if you are in the market for a rescue 8 with ears, let me really encourage you to look at the RQ3 as an alternative design. The side mounted ears are a huge improvement.

Really nice video, btw.
 
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  • #9
I've seen the RQ3's but never would have considered it without your recommendation. I've found one rated at 58kN ... that ought to do ... Thanks, B! :)
 
I'll second burnham's recommondation.
He turned me onto it about 5 years ago, and my crew just love them.
 
A munter hitch can be tightened fairly well with a redirect to the line via a loop or micrograb, then tied off.

I would use a grigri for anything under 200 lbs maybe a bit more. You can tighten a grigri WAY up with a RADS like setup. I have used it for many a rope zipline with nary a problem.
 
Jack top rate video editing!
I have though much about this also.
And had done a pine where I set the porta wrap semi high in the tree. One wrap and fed the tail to a fig 8 to lock off my tension. loose to put the straps on tension cut and be able to release. I could work the basket hitched fig8 up as I went .
Not sure how a shorter run would go mine was rather long when I did it.
 
I've run the rope through a friction hitch and pulley, then tightened with a foot ascender and body weigh. Lighter and more compact than a POW.
 
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  • #15
I've run the rope through a friction hitch and pulley, then tightened with a foot ascender and body weigh. Lighter and more compact than a POW.

Thanks, Sean ... hitch is next on my vid agenda ... :)
 
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  • #17
Jack,

Have you tried a grigri?
Nick,

Not yet, for rigging ... but it, and others, are on the list. I must confess some apprehension about most mechanicals in 'shock' rigging. The only one I'm comfortable with is a Chicago Grip. But, that may be over the top. Although, Mr. Beranek does show one in use on page 27 in his Fundamentals.

I suspect that the winner will be the hitch, like Sean suggests. But, I'm trying to keep an open mind and entertain all approaches. :)
 
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  • #20
Do you always have a ground man?
From an earlier post:
... most of the time I'm working with an HO, so I minimize their rigging chores. That's what started all this. ...

However, if I do need some real help, I'll call in a favor and schedule a good groundie I've worked with before.
 
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