Treeaddict
Treehouser
Just purchased 200’ 1/2” Arbor Plex for rigging. I’m used to Yales Blue Moon. Not thrilled with Arbor Plex knot ability, pliability, and feel. Will the rope become less stiff after it’s well used?
Break-in rope
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SkwerI
Treehouser
It's not the softest rope, but it wears like iron. It will loosen up a little but not much. If you can get used to the stiffer hand while tying your running bowline then you can abuse the hell out of it and it will never give up an inch. Great for old school natural crotch rigging. No need to baby it with pulleys or friction savers.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #5
Good to know those benefits. Makes me feel a lot better about purchasing & using it. Guess there’s no such thing as a perfect rope, eh?
No, but arborplex is about as perfect as a rigging line can be. I run 1/2" as my lighter rigging line, and sometimes even run my grcs thing and a pulley on your main spar. Redirects are done natural crotch, and sometimes the main rigging point is too. Working over structure it's very nice to be able to lift, rig, or if it's convenient (it's pretty much always convenient) to be able to redirect the rigging line just by tossing it thru a crotch. It also works great for when you have intermittent rigging needs, since you can call for the rope when you need it, toss it thru a crotch, and you are rigging and not wasting time or effort. It does kinda suck on the winch tho, it goes square and it's so slick that it slips a bit. Which is why it works so well natural crotch.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #8
That makes complete sense 09. You just saved me a lot of effort, money, and time knowing that it’s great for natural crotch. Toss and go. Have you noticed a difference on the portawrap with it being slick. Something like requiring another half or full wrap vs some rougher stuff?
Treesmith,
Id like to add a 75’ to the arsenal at some point. Figured we max out around 125’ in these parts so the 200’ should be able to handle nearly all situations. I did some practice rigging set ups last weekend- it’s a long rope! May end up turning it to a 75’ and 125’ for now. We’ll see. I’m not experienced/brave enough yet to be comfortable rigging much over 80’ at this point anyway
Treesmith,
Id like to add a 75’ to the arsenal at some point. Figured we max out around 125’ in these parts so the 200’ should be able to handle nearly all situations. I did some practice rigging set ups last weekend- it’s a long rope! May end up turning it to a 75’ and 125’ for now. We’ll see. I’m not experienced/brave enough yet to be comfortable rigging much over 80’ at this point anyway
SkwerI
Treehouser
IMO depending on the height of your trees, you rarely set rigging points over 50' high. Exception here would be big pine trees. so a 120-150' rigging line will get used 10x-20x more often than a 200' rigging line.
I natural crotch and run most limb rigging myself, so I only need height of the tree generally. I did have a 100’ that I’d transition to once I got past 65’-70’. It finally got too worn and I haven’t cut another one yet. I had to rig quite a few limbs last week from 80’-90’ up. Wound up using my 150’ rope. It added time having to cycle the extra rope.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #11
When self rigging, you usually cut a stub and use it like a bollard, wrap enough line for friction to lock it off, make the cut, remove wraps until descent is achieved? I’m sure you could let it run though too.
Take as many wraps as needed for the limb…tie it off…make the cut, leaving a short stub, and let run or snub/hold as needed. If there are several adjacent limbs, I’ll choose one as the stub/bollard and cut it first, then rig the others off of it, cutting them flush. Using a shorter rope means the tail end is coming up to you as the piece descends, eliminating tangles, as well as yarding time.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
With arbor-plex you got to monitor your knots. If you don't snug them up good, between tension and slack cycles, they can loosen up and come apart. As a climbing hitch and in rigging. I know first hand.
Like polypropylene the stiffness in arbor-ples can make knots spring open.
Despite what Samson says, "excellent knot holding capabilities" Is that after it's loaded and holding the work? I'm not sure. But that's kind of a misleading statement.
Like polypropylene the stiffness in arbor-ples can make knots spring open.
Despite what Samson says, "excellent knot holding capabilities" Is that after it's loaded and holding the work? I'm not sure. But that's kind of a misleading statement.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Musta been about 25-30 years ago when I collected samples of the top 3 selling climbing lines for testing.
The test was being tied off to a huge stump, and the bumper of my Toy 4x4 tool truck in low 4 wheel drive, at a slow steady pull.
Snapped the first 2, but True Blue dug in n held.
Bought a 6 hundred foot spool the next day!
Seein's believin!
Jomo
The test was being tied off to a huge stump, and the bumper of my Toy 4x4 tool truck in low 4 wheel drive, at a slow steady pull.
Snapped the first 2, but True Blue dug in n held.
Bought a 6 hundred foot spool the next day!
Seein's believin!
Jomo
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Certainly strong and supple. Stretchy is all. I love htp.
I have a short piece of trueblue. I wanted to climb on it doing my low walnut to get a feel for it. I got it stuck cause I didn't put a release in my throwing knot, and had to use a different line. I still haven't climbed on it. It's definitely heavy. Nice hand feel.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
True Blue is durable. That's for sure.
And more supple than arbor-plex
And more supple than arbor-plex
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