Favorite orchard ladder height?

I am thinking a 10' height might be the sweet spot for me. What height do you all use and recommend?

I am looking to order the Stokes telescoping ladder. Has anyone used the Hasegawa? Any idea if the price is justified?

Does anyone have a recommendation for any other orchard ladders that have a telescoping leg?

I use a 12', not terribly tall but usually enough

I have a 10'. A good height.

I have a 16', too. It sucks, unless it rocks.

I have a 10ft its a bit short.... I feel a 12ft is ideal

I have the hasegawa,very nice,well built,well thought out product.
I was also thinking I wanted a 14-16' but upon inspection ,that is higher than i am willing to slip off.
left with the 12' hasegawa,the taller ones are nice but not as comfortable while up top. Imo,that could have had something to do with it not having had rubber feet and testing in a parking lot but idk was lil too high up on a ladder for my comfort.
I was initially set on the stokes with pavment kit but was sold on the lower price and ingenuity of the hasegawa.

I carried a 14' on the boom truck and owned a 12' that I repoed from someone who owed me some money. Usually I found I was hitting it from the ground with a polesaw maybe or busting out the 14' for the odd cut if it could make it or else it was climbing or boom work. I hate a ladder personally, polesaw or get up there climbing or booming is what I preferred. Ladder=hedgework around here mostly and I completely gave that up in the last few years.

16' is useful with a rope in the tree. I've stood on top of it. Line tight. Its kinda fun.

Otherwise, you want a clear landing zone, but moreso, a strong guy holding it.

Ultimately, I'd want at least the shortest, the middlest, and the tallest.

But, I'm made outta money.

Three Hasegawas here, 8', 10', 12'. All with telescoping legs, which is extremely helpful to me, cuz I'm rarely on flat solid ground. I use them for all sorts of jobs. The rubber feet accessory are a PITA, tho. They're hard to put on, and fall off too easily. So I use a small rubber mat under each leg if I'm on concrete. Used to have a 10' Tallman, but when I tried to talk to the company about making a little clip to keep the leg from flopping around they just gave me an attitude and said it couldn't be done. I made my own clip and used it for a year, but sold it as soon as I tried the Hasegawa.

For hard ground, where the feet won't dig in, and could cause the ladder to splay out and the use to fall, I made a really fancy device. The attachment on the one side is a fixed length friction device borrowed from sailing. The other side has a specialty adjustable friction device grabbing end for the pole with its origins in mountaineering, I believe. This allows adjustment of the spread, and never needs to be removed to open the ladder all the way, such as spearing the leg into a tall hedge or over a fruit tree trunk.

I sourced the raw materials from an arborist supply store (chainsaws, ropes, screw links, duct tape (silver magic), electrical tape (black magic), etc). You might have heard of it, Home Depot. I think that the working load limit is about 244 pounds. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-x-100-ft-Diamond-Braid-Poly-Rope-14156/202048173

I think the sailing side is called a bowline knot, and the mountaineering side is a prussic. This doubles to tie up the leg when closed. Maybe I can get a job with Tallman, in their engineering department. Materials amount to about $0.30 per ladder.

This is the leg clip I made for the Tallman. The Hasegawa comes with one, but it's a thin piece of aluminum, just welded on. So it could break off if it got bent enough times. I like this stainless clip better cuz it has some "spring" to it.

I have found that orchard trees are easier to prune once ya lay'em on the ground, no ladder needed...

Haha!
I have 12&14. I think 10 would be the most used if I had it but the tall ones are great for back yard hedges.
I find a tight rope and ladder to be a bad combo, gotta keep the rope loose