Level Stumps on Steep Ground

I've been trying to abstain from posting in the skilled asset forums, but I agree with Burnham on this topic. Level is level, no matter how you try to confuse the concept. Also, the dogs are not on the saw for decoration. They are key to proper cutting methods.:evil:
 
Jed, you do have a pair of real dogs, right? Not some lame rinky dink little inside set only?
:evil:
:lol:
 

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No doubt, don't tell me they let you into the PNW without checking your qualifications!
 

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Jed, you do have a pair of real dogs, right? Not some lame rinky dink little inside set only?
:evil:
:lol:

Yep, those of us who have little rinky dink dogs make horrible slanted stumps:D

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I'm just kidding.
That one was made by a firewood cutter and my " real pair of dogs" are both twice the size of Burnham's Jasper;)
 
Looks like that faller has a bad back...no bending over for him :).

We also can tell that he doesn't have wrap handles :D.
 
The best way to level your cuts for me, is visually. Ignore the topography, especially when sloping horizons are present. Just concentrate on the bar & that alone. If it looks level when you present it to the tree, it usually is :)
 
Looks like that faller has a bad back...no bending over for him :).

We also can tell that he doesn't have wrap handles :D.

And they did not fall the tree from the same side as they faced it up. I hate small dawgs I think they are worthless.
 
Jed, Just check some of the stumps of the tree's you've felled previous and look carefully at both face and felling cuts. I know its sounds really stupid but ive had trainee's cursing that they can't get a level felling cut when its the face cut that is too blame for not being level to start with and the felling cut pretty good. You and Burnham discussed stump shot and with the small amount you are cutting at any deviation off perfectly level will result in you cutting low on your off side, and who can cut "perfectly" level all the time (wait for the response's:D) When you do your felling cut do you just look at your face cut and felling direction or do you look around the tree as you progress the cut as when you lean around the tree to check hinges/progression its very easy to drop a shoulder or physically lean adjust the levelness of the saw. Agree with Burnham about the position of your hands/balance so adjust by small amounts it can make big differences.
You could try (very subjective to some this!) bore cutting in the side (not all the way through) as, if you are setting your face cut level you can reference the bar to this set your hinge and then cut straight out the back, Then put your saw in as your normally would and then relax the hands and cut towards your already set near hinge whilst looking at your lay to align the offside without pivoting the saw too much to see whether it the pivoting movement thats causing the run off of the saw.. Not advocating that this is the way to cut all tree's just seeing if it would help "sighting" of the bar or saw position to help maintain your levels.
 
I remember someone here saying they had a small level that they put on their bar when they started their cuts...haven't tried it but it might help learn what level really is...seems like it would need to be a round level like this...magnetic would be ideal: :/:
 

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That is an easy guess, though.
I sincerely doubt that there is a single saw in this country with wrap handles.
And the only guys here who know about them are the weirdos like me, who hang out with Americans!

If one of you can tell me where to find a pair of full wraps for my 880. I would like to remedy that situation.
They would make handling that heavy saw much easier, I think.
And it is the only one of my felling saws without heated handles, so switching over would be easy.
 
Theres an app for those :/:

I have a clinometer app on my phone that I use for this purpose. I can just set it on the bar to get a feel for level before I start the cut. I don't normally bother with it myself though unless it's a stump cut that just has to be perfect. Normally I just rely on gut feel like everybody else.
 
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O. k. I'm gonna' seriously out-nerd all of you guys with this one: (like that's gonna be hard for me) I've actually got two tiny levels (one for tilt and one for roll) glued to both sides of my 440's case. Afraid so. Yeah: I actually put a level on my bar, and then got the levels on both sides of the case to correspond with the bar level, and then glued em' in with some J.B. Weld. Of course the boys have a good, hardy laugh at me, "What the hell are you a chainsaw carpenter?" etc. I did it cause I seriously suck at falling.

The reason that I'm letting all of you guys in on all this geekery is that I'd really rather not resort to such contrivances and just learn to cut by feel like a normal human being.

Bounce: Super cool app. I might have to get one of them fancy cell phones. I've always wanted a clinometer anyway.

Husky D: Deeply appreciate the excellent advice man. Thanks. I actually would resort the the bore-cut deal you recommended if I were SO terrible that I absolutely could not--for my terrible cutting--get a tree into the lay. It's not like I'm quite that bad. I was just trying to solicit everyone's suggestions for how to improve one's cutting without having to actually log the long years of experience required to produce a work of beauty akin to one of Jerry's stumps. (I know, I know: mad endeavor!)

pantheraba: perfect joke about the magnet bar! HA! LOL. Etc.

Burnham and Willie: Yeah, I've got the mandatory P.N.W. setup: Heavily woods ported and filter modded big dogged 3/4 wrap. Don't EVER accuse me of not being a redneck. Still won't help you cut if ya ain't got the chops.:cry: :lol:
 
Sean, on a semi-related note I'd like to share a small piece of advice I learned a while back. When making a flush stump cut, always start on the high side of the stump. Otherwise you will end up cutting into the dirt, even if you think you can angle the cut upward enough to get it right. It's just easier that way.
 
O. k. I'm gonna' seriously out-nerd all of you guys with this one: (like that's gonna be hard for me) I've actually got two tiny levels (one for tilt and one for roll) glued to both sides of my 440's case. Afraid so. Yeah: I actually put a level on my bar, and then got the levels on both sides of the case to correspond with the bar level, and then glued em' in with some J.B. Weld. Of course the boys have a good, hardy laugh at me, "What the hell are you a chainsaw carpenter?" etc. I did it cause I seriously suck at falling.

The reason that I'm letting all of you guys in on all this geekery is that I'd really rather not resort to such contrivances and just learn to cut by feel like a normal human being.

Bounce: Super cool app. I might have to get one of them fancy cell phones. I've always wanted a clinometer anyway.

Husky D: Deeply appreciate the excellent advice man. Thanks. I actually would resort the the bore-cut deal you recommended if I were SO terrible that I absolutely could not--for my terrible cutting--get a tree into the lay. It's not like I'm quite that bad. I was just trying to solicit everyone's suggestions for how to improve one's cutting without having to actually log the long years of experience required to produce a work of beauty akin to one of Jerry's stumps. (I know, I know: mad endeavor!)

pantheraba: perfect joke about the magnet bar! HA! LOL. Etc.

Burnham and Willie: Yeah, I've got the mandatory P.N.W. setup: Heavily woods ported and filter modded big dogged 3/4 wrap. Don't EVER accuse me of not being a redneck. Still won't help you cut if ya ain't got the chops.:cry: :lol:

PICS!!
 
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