Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?

Yes, knee ascender (SAKA) and foot ascender is the only way to go. I have two BDB's (one I made and fine tuned to Yale 11.7's) and a RR that see the most use, but the HH with a well matched hitch and rope is a thing of beauty. Nothing compares to it's two finger release and ease of tuning to any rope.

Hopefully the snap on pulley will get me to use the HH more often by doing away with the 'struggle' to install a standard pulley.
 
I was just at a conference that had an SRT presentation. I had the RR the BDB the UNI and the HH all there for climbers to try. Those that climbed on my properly tuned HH instantly recognized its superior attributes. The HH is not only indestructible but is capable of superb performance.
 
Cutting the pulley cheeks into 'hooks' ...any issues with it coming unhooked mid-climb?

Tim B, glad that something I posted was of use to you!
 
It surely is not the perfect answer but I have never had it come completely off during a climb. I do however have a small tether on it in case it does.
 
I cut mine with a small bump so it "snaps" on. I don't have much time on it yet, but I'm not anticipating any problems with it coming off.

IMG_4959 (Small) noted.jpg
 
Dave and GC, I use a homemade aluminum tending pulley with free swinging cheek plates that seems to work fine but I know there must be more of an advantage to the cutout eye than just a couple of seconds installation time on the 'biner. I can see a small disadvantage in the chance for it to pop off. What are the positives?
 
Bermy said:
Cutting the pulley cheeks into 'hooks' ...any issues with it coming unhooked mid-climb?

Tim B, glad that something I posted was of use to you!
Click to expand...

Yes, Fiona. That was a great tip, which very simply can prevent a really problematic scenario. And to think I got it from someone half a world away from me. The internet generally and this forum specifically are just amazing advancements in people's ability to share knowledge. Without it, I would likely never have had contact in my life with anyone here. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, Fiona. That thanks also goes out to all of the other members that make this forum such a great place to be.

Tim
 
GemCutter said:
I cut mine with a small bump so it "snaps" on. I don't have much time on it yet, but I'm not anticipating any problems with it coming off.

View attachment 59664
Click to expand...

Hey, GemCutter!

If you don't mind my asking, what is the software you used to create such a professional looking labelled photograph? Really nice looking, easy to read result. Thanks in advance for any answer you can give.

Tim
 
Tim_B. said:
Hey, GemCutter! If you don't mind my asking, what is the software you used...
Click to expand...

LOL...MS Paint. How unimpressive is that?

Limbrat said:
Dave and GC, I use a homemade aluminum tending pulley with free swinging cheek plates that seems to work fine but I know there must be more of an advantage to the cutout eye than just a couple of seconds installation time on the 'biner. I can see a small disadvantage in the chance for it to pop off. What are the positives?
Click to expand...

On the ground, getting the pulley on and off to connect/disconnect the HH from the bridge is a pain (to me). In the tree, with the weight of 70'+ of rope hanging below, it gets increasingly difficult to get everything in a position where the biner gate will open all the way to facilitate dealing with the bridge ring/swivel, pulley and amsteel loop I use for tending at one time.
 
Hello, GemCutter! Thanks for the tip about Microsoft Paint! Just goes to show how little I've explored that piece of software. It would have saved me from posting pics of my setup using torn off scraps of paper for labels. :lol:

You've probably already seen the video I posted on page 131 of this thread, (with Gary's help) that shows me on the ground using a Hitch Hiker with a Hitch Climber pulley, with the Hitch Hiker's steel biner in the bottom hole of the Hitch Climber pulley, and the biner that attaches to the bridge ring going through the middle hole of the Hitch Climber pulley.

At about 2:40 in the video, I show how tough it is to detach the whole system from the bridge ring. I'm using the Petzl William ball-lock carabiner at the bridge ring in this video. Just in case you missed it. If you decide to go back and watch it, please watch it in 1080P, high def, for most detail.

Thanks again for the tip about Microsoft Paint.

Tim
 
Bermy said:
Cutting the pulley cheeks into 'hooks' ...any issues with it coming unhooked mid-climb?...
Click to expand...

I got some more climb time on it today and took a couple more photos. The rope pretty well fills up the space between the pulley sheave and the bridge ring and helps to keep it oriented to a position that keeps it hooked on even if it wasn't a tight snap on fit.

IMG_20150130_164847_781crop (Small).jpg IMG_20150130_164921_529 (Small).jpg
 
Ray, putting on the pulley while on the ground can be a challenge for me because I have lost a lot of dexterity with my hands. Putting it on in the tree was almost impossible. And I don't like to fumble with something as important as clipping on my climbing system. I made a custom swing gate pulley too but it didn't help, in fact it made it harder.

I know that I have mentioned this before but using a fixed sideplate pulley that has been squeezed together so it snaps onto your bridge ring works incredibly well. Also, any of you that are running a long enough tail on your hitch knot, try tucking it into the slot above the carabiner. It will make everything much smoother and with less setback.

This picture shows both the pressed pulley and the placement of the tail in the slot.
 

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Dave, I understand what you and GC are saying, I can see that using the bridge ring with the pulley could be a pain. I'm using another carabiner in place of the bridge ring and it makes connecting and disconnecting the system very simple. I like simple! I rarely take the HH off my climbing line anymore. I'll try and take a pic tomorrow but I'm sure you can visualize what I'm saying.
 
Dave, thanks for the tip about tucking the tail of the friction hitch into the Hitch Hiker. That is something I would never have thought of trying in a million years. I'll give it a go the next time that I climb.

Just out of curiosity, if you think you can explain it, what was it that made you think about trying to do that?

Thanks again.

Tim
 
Yes, that sounds like it should work well Ray. We each need to find what it is about something that makes it work for us. I like simple to but for me that means a bridge ring. I just like what I see when I look at that setup.
 
Tim, I am constantly assessing what is happening around me as I move through a tree. It didn't take me long to notice that the HH carabiner did not need to move as much as the slot allowed. Tried the tail and it worked great.
 
Dave, yet again you amaze me with your clear headed, constantly on going analysis, of the function of whatever system you're climbing on. That tip for tucking the hitch tail is another example. Kudos, my friend.

I expect Sylvia suggested it, if truth be told.
:D
 
Nice improvement. I don't have a long tail currently. I wonder if a stopper kno to keep the tail from slipping part way out and causing some sort of malfunction.????
 
DMc said:
Tim, I am constantly assessing what is happening around me as I move through a tree. It didn't take me long to notice that the HH carabiner did not need to move as much as the slot allowed. Tried the tail and it worked great.
Click to expand...

High situational awareness. Thank you for that explanation. It is something that I need to work on. Much appreciated.

This post was created almost entirely using speech recognition software with one minor edit.

Tim
 
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