Removing stump grinder bolts...help

Yeah just hack it if that's the case (and they are cheapish). The wax seeps in just like penetrating oil tries to, but I've found the wax follows rust like nothing I've ever used. I'll never buy penetrating oil again, especially after the 50 50 mix of acetone and atf fluid. Btw that's a cast part (or possibly forged), probably cast steel by the application. Tons of heat won't hurt it, because of the high manganese content. Same stuff they make excavator teeth out of. Never seize is your best friend putting stuff like that together, I tell apprentices that their entire pension fund is invested in never seize so apply accordingly lol
 
Never seize goes on every stump grinder bolt I put on. Really makes a difference. Just check them occasionally for torque.
 
Never seize goes on every stump grinder bolt I put on.


Same here, on the rayco, because the teeth last so long. The vermeer teeth break quickly so I just use oil on them to help with tightening and later tooth removal from pocket.
 
thanks for the detailed explanation, kyle
 
I'm probably gonna switch to green teeth after I run though the Rayco's I have but the pocket bolts will always get never seized. It'll be a while though. I have enough new to changes everything twice plus four times as much to be sharpened. I messed up and should've took my dull teeth to the expo. They were covering shipping if you carried them in. He showed me a dozen 5 gallon buckets of teeth someone carried in( obviously in multiple trips) that he was eating the shipping on. That's the thing with teeth. They are heavy. Shipping is a bastard. I can say that for the amount my boss buys and the way Vermeer works, we send a guy to pick them up. Something with shipping won't allow them to come direct without paying a buttload more
 
Yeah just hack it if that's the case (and they are cheapish). The wax seeps in just like penetrating oil tries to, but I've found the wax follows rust like nothing I've ever used. I'll never buy penetrating oil again, especially after the 50 50 mix of acetone and atf fluid. Btw that's a cast part (or possibly forged), probably cast steel by the application. Tons of heat won't hurt it, because of the high manganese content. Same stuff they make excavator teeth out of. Never seize is your best friend putting stuff like that together, I tell apprentices that their entire pension fund is invested in never seize so apply accordingly lol
I would guess a medium carbon for sure they are hard but can still be cut with a file and have a nice ring to them.
 
If you can cut them with a file, feel free to pour the heat to her. Files aren't very hard, so if the grinder shows high carbon, it's for toughness. Heat won't hurt it at all.
 
Shipping - use US Postal Service Flat Rate Shipping.

I ship blocks of wood 12in x 12in x 5in from CA to Alaska for $19 that would cost $90 if you paid by weight. They have smaller box sizes all the way down to $7 that would hold a set of teeth for some smaller grinders.
 
I appreciate all the info inthus thread.

Kyle....especially appreciate you passing along your advice...insights. My son does some welding and fabrication. I will be sending him a link to this thread. Lots of good info.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #69
I appreciate all the info inthus thread.

Kyle....especially appreciate you passing along your advice...insights. My son does some welding and fabrication. I will be sending him a link to this thread. Lots of good info.

Very much the same sentiment here.
 
Automatic transmission fluid. I really don't see why hydraulic oil wouldn't work, but I haven't tried it. The key is the acetone, which cuts it so it penetrates
 
Automatic transmission fluid. I really don't see why hydraulic oil wouldn't work, but I haven't tried it. The key is the acetone, which cuts it so it penetrates

Thanks, bud that's what I figured.Should you mix as you go?Acetone evaporates pretty quick. Medal can?Sorry I know this probity been discuss before.
 
Back
Top