Grippy texture on chainsaw handles

On a limbing saw.
Sure I do.
Let the grip rotate in the hand as I turn the saw around.

I was just limbing and cutting 10 birch trees into firewood size pieces today, and while I was doing it, I thought of this thread.
I move the saw around in my hands a LOT.
 
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I guess what I should say is,

Do you move your hand around so much that the extra energy of moving the saw with improved grip would outweigh the repetitive stress from 'over-gripping'?

Things like a 4-way tire iron need slip and slide for them to work effectively. I've never run across a tool that is too grippy for my taste.


I wish sockets had more grip to them. I put wrinkly duct tape on them when I have to spin them by hand when its too hard without the extra grip, for whatever reason, like only 1/20 of a rotation with a ratchet is available.
 
I try explain in words.
I shift position and thumb throttle on under and upper side of trunk.
Right hand wrist tilt the saw from side to side and up or down. Handle run loosely in left hand saw, but not harder than I can tilt with wrist easy. When saw is in position I hold with left hand, change grip with right to thumb throttle.
This without holding weight of saw on to and sides of trunk.
Move forward with bar on other side of trunk, so risk is little I cut pants, boots or stuff under I may need to function in future.
 
Only time I really hold on to handle with left hand is when I change grip in right hand. A other times handle run thru hand in a loop made from thumb and index finger. those two fingers have contact all other time and handle run thru loop as I see fit to position saw to make the cuts.
 
I think the major difference here is that Magnus is talking about limbing a tree on the ground and Sean is talking about running a saw aloft. Magnus is making 20 cuts per minute while Sean is making 1 or 2 cuts per minute.
 
If I'm not mistaken, Sean is also talking about one handing a top handle saw while trimming. A naturally good grip on the saw in that situation is way better than trying to squeeze it to death on top of holding it out and away from your body.
 
I guess what I should say is,

Do you move your hand around so much that the extra energy of moving the saw with improved grip would outweigh the repetitive stress from 'over-gripping'?

Things like a 4-way tire iron need slip and slide for them to work effectively. I've never run across a tool that is too grippy for my taste.


I wish sockets had more grip to them. I put wrinkly duct tape on them when I have to spin them by hand when its too hard without the extra grip, for whatever reason, like only 1/20 of a rotation with a ratchet is available.

High tooth count ratchets help some, air, or battery powered are better still.
 
If I'm not mistaken, Sean is also talking about one handing a top handle saw while trimming. A naturally good grip on the saw in that situation is way better than trying to squeeze it to death on top of holding it out and away from your body.

You are right.
He stated that in the first post.

I should learn to read entire posts before replying, I guess.

Sorry.
 
I never climbed, but done some lift jobs years ago and can't remember I did different then.
If saw change position its same thing if I stand on ground or a cut in a lift. I still change position from upright to side way's. Still run thru the loop in hand when changing position of saw.
Haven't run much smaller top handle saws in trees, but I suspect they don't do all cuts from same position on saw either.
 
When you're one handing a tophandle. You don't move your hand much as there's nowhere to move it too. You have to squeeze the throttle.
 
Your grip on the saw doesn't change you roll your wrist and twist your arm to make the cut. For me I one hand after the undercut is made with two hands, most of the time.
 
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