Benefit of a 20' pole saw?

Yes indeed. Very helpful and informative, although I don't know if I can explain exactly why -- I guess for me it just shows there are a lot of different options and preferences in how people do things. Maybe some of it has to do with the types of trees and conditions y'all all work in ?

I was originally going to quote DMc's post to make this point but your post that quoted his post is even better.

The point is we are mostly working different trees and conditions than one another and than you. Choice of tools is some percentage our personal choice but a lot tree driven.

One example is I work the Pacific Ocean frontage a lot. Trees have been trimmed, topped, shaped, or just broken over by wind storms. A lot of deadwooding or limb removal is within 20 feet of the ground. I went back to Maryland and was suprised to see a lot of the foliage of trees parked above 70 or 80 feet in the air. Different stratagies called for.

The Silky 21 foot pole saw comes with a pole saw head. For $75 you can get a pruner head. (It's not the strongest, more of an occasional use tool than all day production quality.)
 
Robert, buy neither until you get your harness rope lanyard and spurs. And then learn to use those. You are getting into the idea of you needing more gear than you do mentality again. I cut trees on the side, not a full time deal, and I hardly use either. Probably should get some pole tools here before too long, but I've never reallllllllllyyyyyyyy needed them yet
 
I'm in the market for purchasing a longer pole. I have a 12ft pole. Comes out on half the jobs. Working solo, saves some climb time and solves some problems.
 
I have owned and used the 21' Hayauchi for many years. I think it's safe to say I am the smallest person in the group here...I have never had a problem using the Hayauchi either in the tree or on the ground. I don't find it particularly heavy (but never compared it too the fibreglass ones) Now admittedly this is not working all day with one, but using it when needed.

The three poles can be deployed in different ways for having weight on the holding end or up at the cutting end, or all three out at once.
Apart from some initial 'struggle' to get a fully deployed Hayauchi off the ground and up into the tree (being short doesn't help) once it's up there to do the work it's fine.
We use it to cut, to pull out deadwood, to pull hangers and occasionally position a rope.

I had my pole tools for years before ever coming across the need for a power pole saw.
If you are doing takedowns, a polesaw can be used to cut limbs out to reduce weight, cut from the top, let them tear and hang then finish the cut. Reduce the need to climb and remove limbs.

However, the further out the polesaw is deployed the more difficult it is to prune with them, very tricky to get any kind of undercut in first.
Sawing through a reasonable sized branch will also get tiring...

For more precision pruning, Fiskars pole pruner...there is a thread about them, really clever movable pruning head, slimline cutting mechanism, extendable to 11', I would never go without one...downside is they do break from time to time under the demands of professional tree work, but they have a LIFETIME guarantee...I've had three now in 9 years, never been turned down for replacement.
 
Bermy, thanks for the heads up on the Fiskars guarantee and the fact that they've honored it for you. That is a really strong recommendation. Thanks again.

Tim
 
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  • #33
Robert, I don't know if it has been mentioned yet but there is a learning curve to using pole equipment. It would probably be best to start with the least expensive option you are satisfied with because there is a good chance that while you are learning, you will break it at some point.


Thanks a lot for the heads up DMc, Levi!
I've had a 12-14' (?) extendable pole saw/lopper from Lowes for many years used occasionally for my own trees (I wish I had read about CODIT and "no flush cuts", "leave no stubs", "don't cut the collar", etc. earlier! :)

Agreed, I've rented the chainsaw on a stick before but maybe once or twice in the last few years.
For actual pruning a polesaw is gonna make much nicer cuts, if it's to big for the pole saw it needs to be climbed anyway to make a good cut.
3 8' poles sucks but its doable, just gotta get that rhythm down, or make the new guy do it.

Thanks for the perspective greegreer!

I really like a PP for storm damaged trees, helps keep your distance from loaded limbs.

That sounds like a a great idea, flushcut. Thanks!

A PP is far better for production work hands down!....especially for multiple limbs of size....hand saw will wear you out after a few, wishing you spent the extra $$ on a PP

They are two different tools: each has its place.

Thanks a lot Scott and Butch.

I'm not sure how much of a "production" worker I would be :)

Thanks ALL for all the different perspectives and info .... it is really helping me to "fill in the puzzle" and "connect the dots" for my own possibilities.

I was originally going to quote DMc's post to make this point but your post that quoted his post is even better.

The point is we are mostly working different trees and conditions than one another and than you. Choice of tools is some percentage our personal choice but a lot tree driven.

One example is I work the Pacific Ocean frontage a lot. Trees have been trimmed, topped, shaped, or just broken over by wind storms. A lot of deadwooding or limb removal is within 20 feet of the ground. I went back to Maryland and was suprised to see a lot of the foliage of trees parked above 70 or 80 feet in the air. Different stratagies called for.

The Silky 21 foot pole saw comes with a pole saw head. For $75 you can get a pruner head. (It's not the strongest, more of an occasional use tool than all day production quality.)

Thanks Merle! Yeah, I'm seeing now I need to be thinking of more than just the saw head.

Robert, buy neither until you get your harness rope lanyard and spurs. And then learn to use those. You are getting into the idea of you needing more gear than you do mentality again. I cut trees on the side, not a full time deal, and I hardly use either. Probably should get some pole tools here before too long, but I've never reallllllllllyyyyyyyy needed them yet

Thanks Kyle!
Yeah, I hear you... but these 3 trees which I am hoping to get -- I am afraid to climb (well 2 of them anyway), and the "remote" limb removal with the pole type equipment would be ideal it seems. ... but I will likely wait until/if I get the job before buying. He said he wasn't in a rush.

But I really am counting on this job to give me some momentum, confidence, etc.

If I don't get it, then maybe I will buy the climbing gear and use it to dismantle my mother-in-law's 45' pine tree for initial practice.

I'm in the market for purchasing a longer pole. I have a 12ft pole. Comes out on half the jobs. Working solo, saves some climb time and solves some problems.

Peter, even though I'm not really out of the starting gate much yet, I think I can really relate to what you are saying. Thanks!
 
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  • #34
mostly right.

These were huge fir trees, with 30'+ limbs, several inches thick, starting way up high.

You will be pulling the limb at you, if you have both ends. Sometimes this is desirable, sometimes not desirable. I was pulling the limbs downward, from the side, with a 2:1 MA, by anchoring one end of the rope at the base of the tree with Running bowline, then standing well off to the side, out of the dropzone, with the rope going from the trunk, up and over the limb, and back down to me.



Another job was a nasty, nasty snag in thick, thick brush. It was basically 10' into the forest around an area where employees occassionally passed through, otherwise it would have just been left in place.

I wouldn't have liked to have felled it in any case, but definitely not in thick brush. With a throwline high in a 2-3' thick hemlock, I used the throwline to start rocking the tree closer and back away from me, Closer and Back away from me, CLoser...well you get the picture. Yarding on the throwline (carabiner handle, definitely staying well clear of getting tangled in the throwline) back and forth, building momentum until it started creaking and cracking. After working it a bit, just with a throwline, 100' of leverage, timing and 1 Human-horsepower ("A healthy human can produce about 1.2 hp briefly and sustain about 0.1 hp indefinitely; trained athletes can manage up to about 2.5 hp briefly and 0.3 hp for a period of several hours.") it snapped off close enough to the base to not be an issue.

We definitely pulled over some big rotten trees with the power of the bucket truck and 1/2" amsteel, using a redirect into the woods. With 50' to 60' of leverage (rope attached with the bucket truck), you can do a lot.

One big, big maple at a park was terrible. We had a skidder with a mega winch, and hard rigging. We pulled it, and it wouldn't break. I went in and weakened the base, but not a face-cut/ back-cut, got out, pulled with the winch, and the tree just snapped. Went right were we needed it (any place in the forest, not in the road). No clean-up.

Great! Thanks Sean!
 
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  • #35
I have owned and used the 21' Hayauchi for many years. I think it's safe to say I am the smallest person in the group here...I have never had a problem using the Hayauchi either in the tree or on the ground. I don't find it particularly heavy (but never compared it too the fibreglass ones) Now admittedly this is not working all day with one, but using it when needed.

The three poles can be deployed in different ways for having weight on the holding end or up at the cutting end, or all three out at once.
Apart from some initial 'struggle' to get a fully deployed Hayauchi off the ground and up into the tree (being short doesn't help) once it's up there to do the work it's fine.
We use it to cut, to pull out deadwood, to pull hangers and occasionally position a rope.

I had my pole tools for years before ever coming across the need for a power pole saw.
If you are doing takedowns, a polesaw can be used to cut limbs out to reduce weight, cut from the top, let them tear and hang then finish the cut. Reduce the need to climb and remove limbs.

However, the further out the polesaw is deployed the more difficult it is to prune with them, very tricky to get any kind of undercut in first.
Sawing through a reasonable sized branch will also get tiring...

For more precision pruning, Fiskars pole pruner...there is a thread about them, really clever movable pruning head, slimline cutting mechanism, extendable to 11', I would never go without one...downside is they do break from time to time under the demands of professional tree work, but they have a LIFETIME guarantee...I've had three now in 9 years, never been turned down for replacement.

X2 everything she said. I own both of those pieces of gear and they work fantastically for their specific applications.

Bermy, thanks for the heads up on the Fiskars guarantee and the fact that they've honored it for you. That is a really strong recommendation. Thanks again.

Tim

Bermy, as always, thanks a lot for your thoughtful and detailed response!
Besides containing lots of specific examples and info it really is helping me connect the dots and fill in the puzzle in my thinking.

Thanks SeriousTreesAZ and Tim for the input and re-emphasis!
 
Today, using a throw line I snapped a lot of dead limbs out of what was an interior doug-fir (mostly dead limbs until up high, around 50-60'). After getting some of that crap out of the way, I way able to get a workable TIP. Its not uncommon to have to break some wood out of the way to get a sweet TIP.


Sometimes a pole hook can do this for you, from the ground.


Yesterday, I was able to do a substantial amount of deadwooding from one in-tree work position with a pole with hook attachment. In 5-10 minutes, I broke out what would have taken an hour or more to climb to prune. Elms have lots of deadwood.
 
My PP lives on the chipper. Its named Fred, after this guy that insisted to teach me how to mix my saw gas at 7:00 on a monday morning. After that he told me how awesome of a climber he was, "the nastier the better", reached out his hand, shook mine while waiting for me to ask for his number. That never happened, so Fred left in a tire screeching cloud of smoke from a BMW. I hope you all meet a fred some day.

I have a silky 21'. I wouldn't leave a day without silky and fred.
 
I met a "Fred" he was a 18YO kid who work for assplunder and looked like he had a meth problem. I think his name was Keith or something. Needless to say I didn't call him.
 
When you have a BS you have two 3' poles, which is great for adding something to the original two 6' pole saw sections.

15' is a lot easier to handle than 18', for sure.

20'? Good luck!!!
 
Pole tools have their valuable place, but it can mean somewhat getting under something, and releasing it from the tree. Sometimes you can direct the falling piece away from you.


Dodging stuff, and falling at any age sucks. In your 60's, it's a BIG deal.


IMG_20171017_174804601.jpg

My friend tripped in a little hole, end result ...

restarting his heart three times, a month later. Internal bleeding that went undetected when his ribs broke, a month earlier.

Hasn't been the same since.

That's why I mentioned the throw line. I can set a lot of stuff with a throw line, saving polesaw work and dodging, climbing, etc.

Line setting with a throwline is a developed skill, which you can practice easier than face-cuts. Its so important for working smarter, IMO.

This cherry tree was under a huge fir tree, so it taller than it looks, probably 35-40' to the tip top. Next to a wire fence, with an apple tree on the far side, and the garden fence out of frame to the right. Not enough room to fell in the direction where I was standing. Lots of sidelean, anyway.

I hung it in about 5 minutes of throw lining, pulling in the rope, choking the Cherry with a running bow line, taking a wrap around the trunk. Its cut off the stump at about 4.5'.

I cut what I could easily reach, lowered it a bit more, cut a bit more, lowered it down to the ground.

10-15.

A throw line/ cube is so light, cheap, versatile, productive, etc, etc.

No pole saw was used in the takedown of this tree. All cutting was done pulling a trigger.
 
haha, yeah that's what made me look at that one.... just wondering about anybody here..

As I mentioned earlier, I use something similar except with the blue poles and a better blade. I like it as it is a versatile setup. I use it mostly for trimming/pruning as that is what it is intended for. Are you going to be doing trimming also?
 
I really like the Marvin heads and especially their blades. I've used many brands over the years and the Marvin blades are not only sharper but they stay sharp longer than any comparable blade that fits those heads. For years I used wooden handles made from closet rod purchased at the hardware store. About 15 years ago I began using the yellow fiberglass handles. I have a mix of 6' and 8' poles.
 
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