Skwerl's new chipper and chip truck

Have to hold on tight...those torque numbers are finger breaking and wrist wrenching, given the opportunity.
 
Those dewalt impacts are sweet, and very convenient. I personally prefer the corded ones tho, they last longer and hold up better. Air is still king tho.
 
True, air rules, where it is available. I have a Honda powered wheelbarrow style air compressor/double tank unit that is a magic machine. Push it nearly anywhere, or load it in a truck bed. Great tool.
 
Watch the YouTubes. Real Tool Reviews is good, but I don't think he's done the 2767 yet. My 2763 will smoke my 1/2" air impact. Cordless is bulkier, however.
 
I work in a trade where torquing bolts is an everyday occurance. The electric, and the cordless are sweet tools, but to compare them to a pro model air impact isn't even apples and oranges. 1300 ft pounds doesn't exist on a 1/2" drive. It does exist on a 1" ir air wrench, that weighs 30 pounds, and costs over 1000 new. I understand how they are rating them, and that yes they might momentarily come close to that number, one time in the tools life. But that is not an accurate comparison. If they hit even 3/4 of that torque, there would be no need for professional impacts, and every mechanic shop in the country would use them instead of shop air.

Dave, depending on how old or abused your air impact is, it might need a rebuild. It's not too hard to do, and if you have a good impact, will make it brand new again. Another trick is soaking it in kroil oil. If you aren't quite to a rebuild, that can help a ton. Adding an automatic oiler too is the best thing you can do for an air tool
 
The millwrights at work use the DeWalt impact wrenches .For no larger than they are they do have some amazing power .I don't own one myself but do have a collection of air impacts from 3/8" to 1 inch .The 1" doesn't get much usage but my heavens does it take some air .
In addition I have a couple of reduction right angle drive air wrenches.No impact but they could very easily break an arm .
 
Thanks, Ed. Good to see you again as well.

Al, the bolts holding my knives are grade 12 I think. Way more marks on the heads than a typical grade 8 bolt head. My DeWalt cordless impact took them all right off though, no problem.
For general info grade 12 (metric rating 12.9 )only exists on metric fasteners which is about the same as grade 8 SAE .Depends on the reference .I think one rating on 12.9 might be 175 PSI tensile while some grade 8's are 150 thou .Then again it just depends on the reference used .That said it would take a lot to break or have failure on either one .
 
I haven't seen them all but what I have on knife bolts were all socket heads .The tannic acid from oak chips can just play a tune on high carbon steel bolts .Which is why I suggested some type of anti seize compound to be used .Money and time well spent .Fact it might be money well spent to just replace knife clamp bolts on a knife change in the long run .These things can be a black hearted whore at times to work on .Been there several times,skinned knuckles and all .
 
I work in a trade where torquing bolts is an everyday occurance. The electric, and the cordless are sweet tools, but to compare them to a pro model air impact isn't even apples and oranges. 1300 ft pounds doesn't exist on a 1/2" drive. It does exist on a 1" ir air wrench, that weighs 30 pounds, and costs over 1000 new. I understand how they are rating them, and that yes they might momentarily come close to that number, one time in the tools life. But that is not an accurate comparison. If they hit even 3/4 of that torque, there would be no need for professional impacts, and every mechanic shop in the country would use them instead of shop air.

Dave, depending on how old or abused your air impact is, it might need a rebuild. It's not too hard to do, and if you have a good impact, will make it brand new again. Another trick is soaking it in kroil oil. If you aren't quite to a rebuild, that can help a ton. Adding an automatic oiler too is the best thing you can do for an air tool

I'm not exaggerating. Watch Real Tool Reviews comparison of a well used 2763 and a new one. It actually performed better than it did when it was new. Sure, if you have good shop air an air impact is great, but if you are away from the shop, then the cordless impact is more than competent.
 
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  • #261
My mechanic is the one that convinced me to buy a cordless impact after my 3rd air impact died in a 4 year period. Two of them were Ingersol Rand, I wasn't buying junk. Two mechanics at my preferred shop and many days they don't even turn on the air compressor. They use the cordless tools for everything. My DeWalt will remove the lug nuts on my big truck as well as chipper knives, trailer pintle couplers, etc. The Milwaukee Fuel tools are good as well but I chose DeWalt because they have a wider array of tools available to share the same batteries.
 
Not that I'm saying there's anything wrong with DeWalt. Milwaukee has pledged to keep all M18 batteries and tools interchangeable always. Its a tough call, but its easier if you have no tools to start with. A metal fabbing friend is making the switch from Makita to M18 because of the metal working tools that are basically corded tools made into cordless.
 
I went with the dewalt because that’s what our mechanic uses and he is able to get them for me at a good price through NAPA. The only problem I’ve found is the impact beats the hell out of the batteries. Ive got two that I have to tape on because they cracked where the screwmounts are. Hard to warrentee because dropping can cause this as well. We’ve learned to watch Home Depot for sales. A few times a year you can get the 5amp hour batteries 2 for $100. I don’t use mine everyday but when I do, I use the heck out of it. The 5a/h batteries will last for quite a while in the grease gun.
 
You can rebuild those batteries.I choose not to because I get them at work .There I have a DeWalt drill/driver and sawzall and 5 batteries .At the house two drills,one an impact and another 5 batteries .I like them .
 
I’ve just been taping my busted ones onto the light and grease gun since they last forever on those two tools. I should prolly search to see if I can buy the casings.
 
I was going to rebuild, but decided it wasn't worth the risk. Ended up with a bunch of batteries anyway by buying new tools. I think there was actually another 9.0 added after this. Gave a couple of 3.0s and first gen drill and impact to my mother.

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  • #268
Replaced the throttle cable on the chipper today. Dealer wanted $120 plus shipping, I got this one for $48 on Amazon. Nice heavy duty locking throttle cable that works just like the expensive OEM ones. No more vise grips to hold the throttle wide open!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMTYGZM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also picked up 3 cans of Apple Red Rustoleum from Home Depot to do a cheap paint job on the chipper. It's pretty close to the original color, just slightly brighter red. Anything will look better than how it looks now. And at $4 per can it's not gonna break the bank. I'll start painting when it warms up.
 

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Paint of any color make stuff last longer.

M18 fan myself. I even bought an adapter that allows me to run my old 18v NiCad tools with LI M18 batteries.
 
Around here, chippers seem to really suffer, paint-wise. Maybe because they are in the salt spray behind the truck all winter. A ratty chipper can really affect a company's image. I think I've asked this before, but do you have salty air issues in Florida that eats vehicles?
 
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  • #274
Nope. Only vehicles that spend a lot of time on the beach or pool cleaner's trucks.
 
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Anybody know where I can find replacement motor mounts for my chipper? They look pretty generic but I've had no luck searching the interwebs.
 

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