How would you remove these Trees?

Thanks Kyle. This is great advice to consider.

Also, I do try to be all about safety, but standing in the pickup bed with a pole saw seemed pretty safe.
But these would be the only jobs I had at the time if I get them.
Anyway, thanks a lot for your advice.

Until you lose your balance on a spring-suspended wobbling working surface, with debris that inevitably gets around your feet, when a limb pushes the pole saw, and you fall over the truck side, going head down.

My friend just bit it off a ladder. He's was going in for surgery. Broken T1 vertabrae, I think. Don't know anything more.


Kyle offers good advice.

Takes money to make money. Charge more than you think. Haul off is expensive. They can say No Thank You to disposal, if itemized. Make your money on tree removal and pruning. Firewood is toooooo heavy and work intensive. Market yourself in other ways rather than processing firewood. Read rigging books rather than trying to make money on by-product. I thankfully hooked up a friend with two truck loads of oak, which I didn't have to deal with. I'm getting smoked salmon and vinyl lettering in trade.
 
Thx guys. Remember since you don't have the heavy equipment, you can sell just the tree cutting part. Most blue collar guys around here will do the cleanup part for a lower rate. So sell that. That way you don't do the actual hard part, you just come in, make a mess, and leave with your pockets full, and happy customers. There are always around your weaknesses, especially if you think outside the box.

Cutting with a pole saw overhead is harder than you think. You won't be able to do any directional falling, at best you will be doing a snap cut. Limbs will fall awkwardly, and bounce all over the place. Rent lift, bomb some limbs down, then drop the spar on some pad logs. Then cut everything up to hand load, and then spend twice the time to rake it all up (dead wood explodes when it lands, and sawdust is a major pain). After you do these few trees, you will understand what you are getting into.

Sean, sorry to hear about your friend. I hope everything turns out to be ok. The short falls are usually the ones that get people, because they become complacent. When I was younger, my mom fell out of the back of a ranger, and tore her acl.
 
I'll work off my truck sometimes, but I don't rock a 13K truck, much. It can be slippery, though.

Rule is, truck tops or roofs, Work OR Walk. Don't move unless you are watching where you are going. That way you are Not going to unexpectedly have a little branch "roller" or acorn under foot. If you're watching your feet, getting a solid, steady, "safe" footing, you obviously can't be working, giving safe-working your full attention.
 
I'll work off my truck sometimes, but I don't rock a 13K truck, much. It can be slippery, though.

Rule is, truck tops or roofs, Work OR Walk. Don't move unless you are watching where you are going. That way you are Not going to unexpectedly have a little branch "roller" or acorn under foot. If you're watching your feet, getting a solid, steady, "safe" footing, you obviously can't be working, giving safe-working your full attention.

Good rule...
stay safe
 
Just like shoveling roofs in big snow years ... I think liability , no way I'm buying them a new roof. If I never stood on it for a Treejob I feel better. Sawdust rains , winds , and weather's away eventually.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #60
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>> Thanks ALL .... at the end of this post is the quote/bid I gave my friend for the work ---- all comments welcome!
>>>>>>>>>>>

@Kyle - Thanks for all the detailed help. This is very helpful to help get the big picture.

> Thanks for the advice on just climbing without cutting first

> A climbing class, I have taken, so I have at least some exposure -- doubled rope technique with Blake's hitch -- but no spurs.
We had New Tribe Onyx saddles.... and for me it didn't seem as comfortable as I would like (e.g. hanging from the rope).
My instructor had a Monkey Beaver saddle which I briefly tried (at end of the final day) and it seemed more comfortable.

> I think I'll take another look at the spurs ...and the Cadillac pads

> My insurance doesn't allow me to sub-contract ... I need to call my insurance man and ask about what my options are.


@pantheraba/Gary - Thanks for the reinforcement!


@Sean - Thanks for the great advice, as always!

> I think I will consider only working from my truck bed --- walk OR work --- that sounds like great advice.

>>>>>
Read rigging books rather than trying to make money on by-product.
-- would you please explain about the rigging?


@murphy4trees - Thanks!


@Altissimus - Thanks. Will plan to bring along my manual pruner!


@Altissimus and @Butch -- Am considering just assuming the customer will be left with sawdust unless they specify otherwise.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
House #1 - Front

$750 put safely on ground and cut into pieces - stump cut low (a few inches above ground)
$100 stack on curb
$250 haul off

House #1 - Back

$600 put safely on ground and cut into pieces - stump cut low (a few inches above ground)
$100 stack on curb
$250 haul off

House #2

$650 put safely on ground and cut into pieces - stump cut low (a few inches above ground)
$75 stack on curb
$250 haul off

Also, I will discount 10% of total for 2 trees and 15% of total for all 3 trees.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
I was saying that there is more important things to do to make money than selling firewood. Leaning to rig down a tree will pay much more than firewood.
 
When you think about firewood, you can make about $150 from hours of hard labor, transporting a heavy load across town/ county, where you can get into a wreck, for minimal hourly return.

A cat rescue has almost no input, beyond climbing gear and a vehicle. $100-200 a pop.

Put a tree on the ground, $100 minimum. I don't go out to jobs with a groundie for less than $300. If it something I'm doing alone, it might be for a regular customer, or it might be for a old favorite. Old favorites might get a better deal, but no matter what, its more return than firewood.

I don't really want to wood stove, from any practical point. Its way easier and lighter to turn up the dial on the wall. No mess, no hauling, no smoke in the house from opening the stove to feed it.
 
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  • #65
Yeah, the cat rescue.... that is what Peter Jenkins, my climbing instructor said he did a lot of... and now I hear that drone rescue is a potential niche.

As for firewood... haha I grew up with a fireplace in the house and I like it for the "ambiance" ... watching wood burn inside the house :)

But definitely *very* low return on investment of time and energy to process and sell firewood! (I am finding out)

Sean, do you think my prices and breakdowns are reasonable?
 
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>> Thanks ALL .... at the end of this post is the quote/bid I gave my friend for the work ---- all comments welcome!
>>>>>>>>>>>

@Kyle - Thanks for all the detailed help. This is very helpful to help get the big picture.

> Thanks for the advice on just climbing without cutting first

> A climbing class, I have taken, so I have at least some exposure -- doubled rope technique with Blake's hitch -- but no spurs.
We had New Tribe Onyx saddles.... and for me it didn't seem as comfortable as I would like (e.g. hanging from the rope).
My instructor had a Monkey Beaver saddle which I briefly tried (at end of the final day) and it seemed more comfortable.

> I think I'll take another look at the spurs ...and the Cadillac pads

> My insurance doesn't allow me to sub-contract ... I need to call my insurance man and ask about what my options are.


@pantheraba/Gary - Thanks for the reinforcement!


@Sean - Thanks for the great advice, as always!

> I think I will consider only working from my truck bed --- walk OR work --- that sounds like great advice.

>>>>>
Read rigging books rather than trying to make money on by-product.
-- would you please explain about the rigging?


@murphy4trees - Thanks!


@Altissimus - Thanks. Will plan to bring along my manual pruner!


@Altissimus and @Butch -- Am considering just assuming the customer will be left with sawdust unless they specify otherwise.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
House #1 - Front

$750 put safely on ground and cut into pieces - stump cut low (a few inches above ground)
$100 stack on curb
$250 haul off

House #1 - Back

$600 put safely on ground and cut into pieces - stump cut low (a few inches above ground)
$100 stack on curb
$250 haul off

House #2

$650 put safely on ground and cut into pieces - stump cut low (a few inches above ground)
$75 stack on curb
$250 haul off

Also, I will discount 10% of total for 2 trees and 15% of total for all 3 trees.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Hard to say about prices. Markets vary a lot. Disposal costs vary a lot.

Using www.getchipdrop.in, I've started saving disposal costs by paying $20, and having a drop spot 0.2-3 miles away, pretty consistently. Previously I never paid for chip disposal, but sometimes had to drive much farther, but never vary far.
Your market might want mulch, or if not, then everyone will be paying disposal at a greenwaste dump, or forced to have a dumping property.

Felling trees means more mess over more area. A dead, punky tree might turn into lots of raking, pitchforking, loading, etc. Crap wood has no value so extra cost per volume. Hauling a load of good firewood is less expensive than a load of crap wood that has to have paid disposal.


Stacking wood to look neat is a stupid waste of energy. It means lifting wood for no reason. Roll as much as possibly.
MOVE TO CURB, not STACK AT CURB.




Start getting a list of firewood guys to pick up. Aim for guys that want to get firewood for free, not need to get firewood for free. I have a mortgage broker who loves firewood, and shows up in a nicer, newer rig than me. Better for him, his wife, and a kid to show up to load up, than the itchy-and-scratchy brothers in a rusted out beater.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #68
....MOVE TO CURB, not STACK AT CURB.
Start getting a list of firewood guys to pick up. Aim for guys that want to get firewood for free, not need to get firewood for free. I have a mortgage broker who loves firewood, and shows up in a nicer, newer rig than me. Better for him, his wife, and a kid to show up to load up, than the itchy-and-scratchy brothers in a rusted out beater.

I don't have a chipper... my disposal method so far is to bring it back home, and that is what I would plan to do if I get this job.

I'm looking for a trailer now which should mean many fewer trips if I haul stuff off.

But if I start getting removal jobs I'll need to come up with a good solution... maybe taking to the dump and paying them.

Great ideas. Thanks, Sean.
 
The sooner you can get a trailer, any trailer, the better off you'll be. Driving small loads sucks--waste of time, money, and risk (every time you drive, you risk an accident). A lot of used trailers have good tread, but UV damaged tires. Consider this in the cost-analysis.




I understand you don't have a chipper. If nobody wants chips in your neck of the woods, everyone pays to dump someplace. An advantage of making chips is that it compacts your volume, making a material that is often better than before it was processed. If everyone has to drive 10 miles to dump, everyone has to build that into their prices.

Locally, TONS of people want chips. There is a free chip dump open 24/7. Its a local market difference.






If anyone is into permaculture in the area, and is wanting to build a hugelkultur bed, you might be able to take them slashed up branches, tons even. I made a possible connection for that, recently. Sometimes, for me, I can get a trailer much, much closer that the wider chipper, and I end up with a salad of small limbs. At the moment, I have a trailer load of cedar and redwood, not hugel-conducive. Saved a steep 20'+ drag for 1500 pounds of material.
 
Just like shoveling roofs in big snow years ... I think liability , no way I'm buying them a new roof. If I never stood on it for a Treejob I feel better. Sawdust rains , winds , and weather's away eventually.

As a sweep now I go on roofs all the time. A proper roof should withstand the weight of a man no problem. And if it isn't proper, well that's not my fault. I don't ever plan on buying anyone a roof.
 
How do they charge?

I think the local county green waste recycler is about $38/ ton, and the other places go by volume. Unfortunately, across the county.
 
Last year was free to dump, this year they wanted $50 a ton, but I have not had to pay yet. I go in with a clean load, only brush. I guess people dump other things with the brush.
 
I'm liking having the chipper instead of loading and unloading branches and shuttling to the tip.
I can sell a load of chips for $50.
To dump a load of green waste at the tip is $30 per metre, so my ute stuffed up good with branches would probably be like $60-90! Not many people are willing to have that charge plus time to take it there...

I still think my prices are pretty reasonable, but here in the country inevitably I 'compete' with matey with spare time, a truck, a ladder and a chainsaw, 'yeah, nah, I'll just cut them branches off, chuck 'em there...she'll be right mate...' sheesh.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #75
Just to bring this full circle.

I just spoke with my friend.
He had gotten 2 other bids for his 3 tree removals.
He gave another guy the 2 dead rotten trees at the one house.

And I matched his lowest bid for the single tree in the small front yard (the 3rd tree in the pictures at the beginning).

Here was my original bid for that tree:

House #2

$650 put safely on ground and cut into pieces - stump cut low (a few inches above ground)
$75 stack on curb
$250 haul off

I thought 650 was a decent/fair price for the risk, etc. involved and the cleanup part, I just tried to figure my time.

I wound up taking the job, removal and cleanup (leave a low stump) for $500

This should be all good experience for fine tuning bidding, expectations, etc.

With my newly acquired trailer (hopefully) it won't take me more than 2 days (by myself).

Thanks everyone.
 
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