Damaged Chain?

rfwoody

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Hopefully this isn't too dumb a question, and thanks for considering it!

Problem:

I have a few loops of chainsaw chain where either a couple of rivets or drive link(s) are messed up somehow.

Symptoms:

When the chain is off, the links stick together and don't rotate on the rivet like the good ones.
And when the chain in on the saw, you can pull it around with your hand fine, until the bad part gets to the sprocket and then it is hard to pull, until the bad part gets past the sprocket, then it is easy again.

Questions:

Is it ok to run the chainsaw with a loop of chain like this?
If not, to fix the problem, would one normally just replace the bad rivets and drive links with new ones?
Or should you just toss the chain?
Or take out a chunk of bad chain and make it into a loop for a shorter bar?
etc.?

(Hopefully its ok to run the saw with a chain like this)

Thanks!
 
Run it. One or two minutes and the tight rivets will loosen up and it will be fine. Whoever made the loops spun down the master links a bit too tight.
 
Or the chain is bent a little. That'll cause a little excess bar wear.
 
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  • #4
Run it. One or two minutes and the tight rivets will loosen up and it will be fine. Whoever made the loops spun down the master links a bit too tight.

Thanks Brian.

Please let me clarify to ensure I'm telling you the whole story and please see if your answer still applies.

As far as I know, these chains were all ok and normal when I first got them.

On at least 2 of them, milling chains, I was suspecting I damaged them somehow at the end of the cut, right when the bar is coming out the end of the log, the slab I was milling slammed onto the edge of the chain and derailed it from the bar.

Now, if it was the case that something I did damaged them, would it still be ok to run them ... e.g. not fear either the chain breaking or else damaging the sprocket (assembly) somehow?

Thanks!
 
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  • #5
Or the chain is bent a little. That'll cause a little excess bar wear.

Thanks Willie, good to know!


Brian, it just hit me after I posted the last one that I can still take your suggestion and run it for a minute or two and see if it runs smoothly after it is warmed up. Thanks.
 
Check them closely. If theyre bent scrap em. If they're straight but kinked, oil em up good and run em.
 
I think I'd try straightening the chain out in a vise or something before running them, tweak it back to close to normal, unless like Brian suggested it was the rivets pressed too tight from the beginning. If you can get the chain to move around the bar easily with your hand, unless something is really weird, you're ok.
 
If the chainsaw derails its chain, the sprocket can damage some of the drive links. It's easy to get with the 200T for example (cutting a bunch of limbs in the trailer). The sprocket makes some small divots on the edges of the drive links, rising the metal around them. That makes them too wide, either to slide in the bar and to articulate around the rivets. Look closely at them when you search the eventual bents and use a small flat file to give them back their thickness and their smoothness.
That gives less stress to the mechanic than running it hard to make it fit again.

If the chain is bent, it's usually at a drive link because it's a single piece of steel. Hold it in a wise at the rivet just before the bent and pull/ push at the rivet just after the bent, a little by a little to see the progress. Try to not use the other links as a lever, that could weaken the rivets and spread the links.

If the chain is twisted, you have better to trash it. It will be difficult to straiten it correctly.
 
I think I'd try straightening the chain out in a vise or something before running them, tweak it back to close to normal, unless like Brian suggested it was the rivets pressed too tight from the beginning. If you can get the chain to move around the bar easily with your hand, unless something is really weird, you're ok.

If the chain is bent I'd chuck it myself. I've bent a few over the years and never had luck straightening them.
 
Yeah, trying to straighten them can bust a tie strap, or likely weaken it. I thought it might be worth a try.
 
Further to what Marc-Antoine was saying a badly worn sprocket can cause a chain to kink up. Also the potential damage to drivers from a still spinning sprocket/spur when a chain throw occurs is a good reason to make a habit of immediately hitting the chain break whenever you do throw a chain. It can save a lot of the damage if done quickly.

As well running really dry, like can happen with milling at times can cause a chain to kink up as well.
 
If the chainsaw derails its chain, the sprocket can damage some of the drivelinks. It's easy to get with the 200T for example (cutting a bunch of limbs in the trailer). The sprocket makes some small divots on the edges of the drivelinks, rising the metal around them. That makes them too wide, either to slide in the bar and to articulate around the rivets. Look closely at them when you search the eventual bents and use a small flat file to give them back their thickness and their smoothness.

Also if you do have this happen. You can spend a long time filing the burrs off. Or you can loosen your chain tension enough so the chain will spin. Give it a couple of blips to spin it up and then readjust your chain tension and back off to the races. Certainly not the best option for the bar and sprocket but a effective and fast fix to get going again.
 
Once in awhile I have thrown chains due to me running a little slack and the side tension in the cut. Get caught on the chain catcher and usually all is good for re use ... When the drivers are bent it's garbage. Doesn't happen every time but I know when it's time to move on to new loop. Sucks when it happens to brand new ones. The link thing you describe is the big clue. Have had success though if not that bad re install a tad on the loose side and scream the motor w no log cut for resistance then tighten her up.
 
Filing the burrs can be a frig this. I like to touch them to the grinder at the shop if it isn't necessary to run them off on the bar in the field.
 
You know it can be. Which is why my hackles raise if I ever see someone throw their chain and not apply the chainbrake. I mean c'mon!
 
I just edited my post if you please to read it again.
If the chainsaw derails its chain, the sprocket can damage some of the drive links. It's easy to get with the 200T for example (cutting a bunch of limbs in the trailer). The sprocket makes some small divots on the edges of the drive links, rising the metal around them. That makes them too wide, either to slide in the bar and to articulate around the rivets. Look closely at them when you search the eventual bents and use a small flat file to give them back their thickness and their smoothness.
That gives less stress to the mechanic than running it hard to make it fit again.

If the chain is bent, it's usually at a drive link because it's a single piece of steel. Hold it in a wise at the rivet just before the bent and pull/ push at the rivet just after the bent, a little by a little to see the progress. Try to not use the other links as a lever, that could weaken the rivets and spread the links.

If the chain is twisted, you have better to trash it. It will be difficult to straiten it correctly.
 
How can they do that, the noise is so horrible for a machinery. It's obvious she's damaged and that aggravates it.
 
Let them sit...........behind a tire for instance.

I threw a saw once out of anger. The anger quickly subsided and was replaced by utter dread, foolishness, and stupidity when I discovered it landed on a rock and cracked the case. :whine:

I worked with a guy once on VAncouver Island who threw a stubborn saw over a cliff. Solved that problem. Wasn't even his own saw. Lol.
 
:lol:
you can loosen your chain tension enough so the chain will spin. Give it a couple of blips to spin it up and then readjust your chain tension and back off to the races.
I have done that on the job, but for a pinched bar. Two actually, one with my ms440 and one with my ms 150T. It takes more than a couple of blips though, more like half a minute running full speed. You get some smoke, some sparks... and a nice groove. The show can go on...
 
LOL on over the cliff.

The only time I've ever thrown a saw more than a foot or so, was when it was on fire. Yeah dumb, but I thought it might blow up. The next time I just doused it with dirt. :D
 
I have never pinched the rails before that I can recall? I've bent a bar or two before.

I imagine it would be quite a spark show to grind out a new groove. Sounds brutal.
 
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