What is a Good Way to Attach a Pull Line to a Trailer Hitch on a Pickup Truck?

I've never had any trouble. I stuff a rag between the sling and edge of the receiver if there's a side pull and Ive never had any damage to my sling. My reciever is not oily. I keep it cleaned up with a wire brush along with the hitch slug.
 
No, I have a big metal yey spliced in the termination of the rope, for a clevis.

Other end I have a specially build Porta wrap, massive, heavy and super strong.
 
Yup.
Gave that sucker a wasp waist!

That was when my old apprentice, Martin, learned a lesson about communication lines and BIG rolling equipment:lol:
 
I like the bollard attached to the truck idea. Seen a few purposely built on bucket trucks. They were incorporated into the fr & rr bumpers.
 
Craig! Cool....

What's the coal connection?

Last name? Were you a miner?

Do tell! And don't be shy to fill out your profile so we can get to know you better.

:beer:
 
Hi Sean, I recognize a couple of buzzers here.
Butch, the coal connection is just the gear head in me. I'm a true car fag. I have an old 96 f350 that I've been wanting to stuff a stroked cummins in. 449 designates the cubic inch. It's just a sitting project currently. I'll fill out my profile some more.
 
I have a 2015 6.7 Ford diesel (great weight to power ratio for not a chipper bed or anything) 9300lb and I typically take a bite of rope, wrap it around the hitch 3-4 times and clip it back on itself with a 50,000lb break strength Caribiner, the rope locks on itself with the weight on it and with the wraps it can't pull tension through the Caribiner. Once the load is down it's very easy to unload and doesn't require use of the entire rope if the tree length doesn't require it. Although running bowline is a great choice because not too much extra strain due to rope bend. Not on the ball but the body of the hitch where it meets the receiver.
 
Anyone see any trouble with this method? I'm also looking for opinions and would not want to point someone in the wrong direction, however I am still learning. My experience tells me this is safe since we are using wraps for the bite of rope which limits rope bend and maximizes the strength of the rigging rope. The total force shouldn't even make it to the Caribiner it's more of a precaution to prevent a catastrophic failure of the knots(connection points not a real knot), and creates a secured point of attachment. The only actual knot I use when pulling is a running bow line. Great knot but I heard it tends to break where the rope bends in the knot because it's weakest there. Can anyone verify this? -- thanks
 
I typically take a bite of rope, wrap it around the hitch 3-4 times and clip it back on itself with a 50,000lb break strength Caribiner,

From my armchair here, it looks good to me!
 
Beware grease from the tow-ball (just makes a mess), and you could just hang a POW over the ball if in any doubt.

I can't picture how the rope stays aligned, without rubbing on the hitch slug somewhere with an edge.
 
I will post a picture tomorrow afternoon or something of how I do it since it's hard to explain. Just looking for input. I do NOT crossload the caribiner, I make sure before I pull that the spine/gate are aligned in strength with the body of the hitch
 
Tug boat hitch...
Wrap around the ball, go under the standing part, loop over the ball, pull loop tail under the standing line, wrap around ball again...repeat...tie off however you want, or just hold it while you pull.
Will not jam.
 
Finally had an opportunity to take some pictures... yanked a Blue Agave out for a client today using this. Had to redirect through the yard off a palm trunk to get a clear and safe pull angle. The house is tucked tight in a cul de sac...
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