Stihl "2 in 1" File Guide for Chain Sharpening?

It feels natural to curl it the proper way. That's not really a concern.

I said it earlier. Find a method that works for you, and don't stress if it's not the same as the next guy. I've worked with a whole lot of different sawyers over the years and I'll say I've seen some unique filing techniques. If the end result is a razor sharp saw I'm all for it, no matter how it's done.
 
This is why I do it.

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I was taught to curl, but couldn't find rhyme or reason to it, not any difference, so I abandoned it. The straight/ spiral cut explains it. Thanks.

Now I don't have to tell everyone I teach that I was taught to curl by people learning from old schoolers, but don't do it. Didn't think I was missing out on sharp chain.
 
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I don't use any guides and honestly 25+ years ago now when I learned to file I had a hell of a time with it. My only real advice is find what works for you, and it may not be what works for someone else. I file in a very unique way that works for me. Also the best advice I had when I was learning to file was, never run dull. Never. As soon as you don't think the saw is cutting optimally, stop and file. Hell if you just filed and it doesn't cut right. Stop. File it again, double check angles, raker clearance. Never run dull or with a saw that cuts poorly. Sticking to this helps you get it sorted IMO, as you'll grow weary of filing incorrectly just to do it again.

Check your angles and stuff but also when learning stop and look at your cutters a lot. Learn what a dull one looks like and what a sharp one looks like. It'll help you learn to curl the file and put that razor sharp edge on.

Expect to make all the mistakes, to much hook, not enough hook, to much angle not enough angle, to high a raker to low a rakers. Making the mistakes is all part of the process.

Thanks squisher! .... the constant "sharpen-check-resharpen" feedback loop makes a lot of sense.

I have used the 2-n-1 file guide a time or two now and it seems to work really well.

After seeing what y'all say, it seems the difference is that with a file guide one can get "good" consistent results with little effort.
Whereas by hand-filing, one can learn to get A++ razor sharp teeth if they put in the effort to learn.
 
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.... regardless of to curl or not to curl....

isn't there something to be said about using up the *whole* diameter of the file and not just wearing out half of it?

e.g. rotating the file from time to time... and cleaning out the file?
 
You mean unlike those of us who consistently only use one side of the file and throw it out when that side is worn out?
 
.......After seeing what y'all say, it seems the difference is that with a file guide one can get "good" consistent results with little effort.....

Yes! With a 2 in 1 you will consistently get all that a stock saw and chain were designed to give. That is a heap better than what most arborists can get without one. They are very good tools.
 
isn't there something to be said about using up the *whole* diameter of the file and not just wearing out half of it?
Actually, even without curling the file, you wear the second half of the file when you sharpen the other side of the chain.

Excepted if the chain is badly rocked on one side. In this case, only half of the file is trashed, the other half is still good. You win an half file:/:
 
Skwerl is back?!?!?!

I'm gonna put these files on our truck. We have employees and some are new at sharpening. Filing is an art and science. It requires diligence to master. Some employees aren't interested in that level of finesse. The guides might be a way for the crew to have a consistent tool with minimal fuss. I'll have to buy a few for the different size saws we have, but it'll be worth the experiment


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Actually, even without curling the file, you wear the second half of the file when you sharpen the other side of the chain.

Excepted if the chain is badly rocked on one side. In this case, only half of the file is trashed, the other half is still good. You win an half file:/:
Me and the crew free hand, I don't think you could wear out one side of a file that way because you're constantly picking up and setting down or swapping hands etc
 
Free hand Chisel's w some corrections took awhile , Raker's took ten times longer to get dialed. Some sort of acquired taste thing I guess ...
 
I don't use file guides, tried 'em, didn't feel natural or something. Never felt like I could get underneath the tooth far enough. Anyway, to each his own. I can see that they would be valuable to a noob.

I wrote an article for my apprentice James about sharpening, to help him starting from scratch. Might bring value to someone, took me long enough anyway. I'm not an expert, and I dont play one on the internet. Its just more info than you can fit in a forum post. You can find it here:

https://www.educatedclimber.com/saw-chain-maintenance/

All the best,
 
I don't use file guides, tried 'em, didn't feel natural or something.... I can see that they would be valuable to a noob..

LMAO! The 2-in-1 file guide is a tool that will increase consistency and reduce the workload of the job of sharpening chainsaw chains. Unless you are on foot and packing light or have the need to alter cutter geometry, the 2-in-1 has value for anybody that wants to keep their chain sharp and cutting properly, whether they be newbie or seasoned professional. It is a tool, like the chainsaw itself.
 
Sorry, Dave, but that thing has no use whatsoever for a professional.

It is a crutch.
Something to help newbies out.
And like other crutches, it should be discarded once you've learned to walk on your own.

Problem with using a crutch is that it keeps you from learning to walk well.

This tool is probably a fine thing for firewood cutters and gardeners ( Normally I'd include arbos, but that would piss off most of the members here, so I shall refrain from dong that:lol:)

It will not help you to learn how to file a chain.
It will not help you to learn how to file differently according to the kind of trees you are working in and the kind of work you do.

There is a hell of a difference in cutting hardwoods or felling and limbing pulp.
I surely don't file my chain the same way for those two jobs.

I recently had a 1½ day job felling and bucking large Grand fir.
Didn't want to change a chain for 1½ day, so I was running a chain that cut less that 100%.
I was aware of that through the whole thing, and it pissed me off.( Between that and having the tip of my pinky cut of and sewn back on, I was not doing a good job on those firs.)
 
The 2-in-1 chainsaw guide is not meant to teach anything; it is a tool, a guide and gauge to assist in sharpening. I have hand-sharpened chains for most of my life and have no problem with it but I actually prefer using the guide for most of what I now do. Just as I use other tools that make things that need doing easier.

I do not do what you do, Stig, but I still consider myself a professional.
 
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